November 25, 2011 2:01 pm Dubrovnik, Krk, Split - Croatia September 2011
Oh, that Greek king Odysseus had no foolish lips, by no means... Having gorged himself to the point of hiccups (during the ten years of the siege of Troy!) of the vaunted Turkish “all-inclusive” with specific, but still animation, the hero of the Illiad paved the road to his native Greece through the Adriatic Sea , where he actually hung - and after all, he had a place... “The thousand two hundred islands are not figurines to show the sparrows,” I thought, washing down the spicy aroma of a rocky pine bay with dry Croatian Malvasia... and on the table is the same still life as the king of Ithaca had for several thousand years before the events described: white wine sparkles against the backdrop of lush, as if specially fattened, green hills; karst fissures of hard cheeses are softened by cascading waves of cured meats; bread, laid out without ceremony on the teak surface of the table, and the whole composition is completed by a wicker basket with fresh trophies - figs and grapes, obtained on this island located opposite... So Odysseus probably set foot on his land, climbed up the mountain over those stones, inhaled the smell of pine needles and rosemary, bent down from time to time to pick a wild grape or reached for fresh figs, lay down in the shade of a fig tree, quenched his thirst with that same Malvasia and fell asleep to the clatter-russling of the cicadas “well done, well done, well done” Of course well done, just like us who decided to go on a yacht from Dubrovnik to Shchebenik with a visit to the waterfalls.
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If you don’t pull the show-offs, then renting a simple sailing yacht in Croatia in terms of six people is the same, if not cheaper, than renting an apartment with the only difference being that in addition to a berth with amenities, you are also provided with a vehicle that From the outside it seems very, very fashionable... But only from the outside. Some five years ago, looking at people dining at cockpit tables somewhere in Cannes or Antibes, I never even thought about trying on such glamor. Glamor, yeah... now I know for sure that people dine at the tables of a yacht cockpit not because of financial excess, but because of its insufficiency. And then, in France, I was probably a little jealous of those yachtsmen and most likely wished to be in their place. Beware of your wishes - they come true! Would you like a Dolce Vita? Get - fry the cutlets in the hold with the hatches battened down during the transition. Otherwise, what will you eat after a beautiful mooring? The size of the restaurant bill last night directly indicated the supermarket for the next three days of the trip, and even teased “come on, come on, sama-sama-sama.” I give... myself... Who needs tea? Who wants cutlets? What? Should we throw everything to hell and run to re-hang the fenders, otherwise we'll scratch the side to hell? Well, this is me in a moment...
Croatia became the first independent sea voyage after learning yachting in Tenerife. The memory of Tenerife, or more precisely of the drill and the daily eight-hour ocean motion, made a face twist for three months after the end of the course. It was a lot of rocking, but the knowledge that the captain managed to impart into us then turned out to be surprisingly strong - who would have thought that we would be able to manually plot a route, maneuver in the thick twilight among a dozen islands and moor at night in an unknown marina the first time! Remove the sails! Bay - "o-ix-o" - hawse - starboard side is ready! Bay - "o-ix-o" - hawse - port side is ready! Fenders, a hook, a mooring for the cleat, and our “Nikita” gracefully enters the opening, barely visible to the eye, between two yachts.
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The first toast to the young skipper is super! Well done! He still doesn’t really understand that he succeeded. The second toast is to the captain-teacher, he is now somewhere at the regatta, we wish him good luck. Ko-skipper, that is, I limit myself to a handshake and dry kisses on the cheek - well, as they say, who studied for whom... Then we drink without toasts.
Alcohol on a hike is not drunkenness, but a tribute to tradition and a disciplinary measure. The “Admiral's hour”, striking at twelve o'clock in the afternoon, could not be violated - you would anger the monkfish, and they are wow. Exceptions are children and pregnant women. “Admiral's Hour” also carries an element of education - no matter how bad you feel in the morning after an evening binge, you cannot even think about beer until twelve o'clock in the afternoon. Torment yourself with self-analysis and draw organizational conclusions.
The crew members, who are considered teetotalers on land, switch to the “mode” already on the second day - if there is no pitching and seasickness, then not drinking during the transition is a pure sin, and considering that a liter of wine in Croatia is one euro more expensive than a bottle of plain water, then... Executed on tenth, last day of transition poster gesture “I don’t drink anymore!” led to the fact that the “executor” became the only crew member capable of holding the steering wheel for four hours while the team snored in concert. But I would drink and go to the airport like a person, in a taxi. Sea devils are cunning and inventive in their revenge.
“Tutto vicino!!! Tutto vicino!!!”, i.e. very close, yells the Italian skipper, rolling his eyes and frantically waving his arms. Tutto Vicino is about fifteen meters from the starboard side of his yacht “Roma” and the same amount from the left side of the French catamaran “Esmeralda”. For reference, the length of our “Nikita” is thirteen and a half meters, but the Italian, judging by his gestures, is afraid that we were poorly attached to the pine tree, it didn’t matter if we threw the chain onto a stone ledge, and frankly speaking, we weren’t successful with the anchor, so what... He tends to suggest that in the event of a natural disaster, we can hook its side with ours. Late. A natural disaster has already occurred and its name is “Esmeralda”, from which we covered the ungrateful “Roma”. The fact is that while the Italians were splashing in the sunset rays that illuminated the uninhabited island, and we were suffering in the same rays, but only with mooring, the French finished their water procedures and moved on to grilling the barbecue, accompanied by a hefty libation. In their latitudes, apparently, the “admiral’s hour” begins at sunset. The higher the degree, the stronger the fire, the louder the voices, the more active the movement. Will they set it on fire or not? The Roma skipper is the first to break down. Despite the pitch darkness, he gives up and moves twenty meters to the left. Out of harm's way. Our skipper, masking his anxiety with the words “there’s nothing to eat in the house, I’ll go night fishing,” sits down at the stern with a fishing rod at the ready. And on the “Esmeralda” they have already gone to pieces - when everything has been eaten and drunk, they somehow lift the anchor, start the engine and... miraculously, without catching anyone, they leave with a whoop in an unknown direction... The Italians are relieved to turn off the lights in the cockpit, and ours The skipper finally puts the bait on the hook and casts the line.
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If it were not for the need to collect water and charge the battery, it is unlikely that we would have spent the night in equipped marinas. They would go on and on, stopping for sightseeing and replenishing provisions... Yes, the marina sometimes has hot water and there is always more than one toilet, it has shops, restaurants, and laundries. In some you can find boutiques, spa salons, a golf course, and (attention!) swimming pools with sea water, but... what’s the point in a restaurant with, scary to say, an enoteca if you can’t go out on deck, scratch what’s itching without looking at your neighbors and through an instant to find yourself in clean, clear water? And then I woke up and fell into the sea! You get out, wrap yourself in a towel, and instead of “good morning” you are asked a direct question: “How many mussels will we take for lunch?”, and you answer so imposingly, so casually, “Yes, they’re already tired of them. The sausage is over..." Yes, the best fish is sausage, and its closest habitat is, whatever one may say, Marina. Besides, we have a tight schedule and no matter how nice it is in a quiet bay or anchorage, we have to move forward. Swimming, breakfast, washing dishes and the captain, having deployed the pilot, commands “Take off your panties!”
Oddly enough, but the command “Take off your panties!” does not carry any erotic charge. Absolutely. But it helps the team withstand the bon ton. Here an observer stands on the shore, looks at the horizon and his eye catches a white yacht. The wind inflates her sails, she is all so thin, graceful, confident in herself, rushing, cutting the surface of the sea, and... panties and towels flutter on the sides in time with the sails. So that “Nikita” does not make the same impression, the captain stepped up the preparations with a team about underwear. Although, a rare sailboat will enter the marina “without panties,” and in the end we also relaxed and sent welcome signals to the city of Trogir once again with the help of swimsuits. The residents of Trogir, I think, are no strangers, but the owners of swimsuits and the person responsible for getting ready received a slight reprimand.
Yacht household items, as you might guess, are specific. In some places even very much. Well, take, for example, such a question as washing. It would seem something simpler, but it’s not. If you do laundry in the marina, that’s one thing, more on that later, but on board it’s a completely different matter. Firstly, you need to save water. Secondly, electricity. Therefore, we combine washing panties (T-shirts) with washing. That is, panties act as a sponge for the body. There is also a nuance with natural needs - everyone hears what you are currently performing, and at the end of the process you need to do a simple combination of maneuvers to pump waste products into a fictitious tank. Now about washing in the marina. There are laundries there, but they are used by those who have time. In the end, you can buy a basin to wash, but this is not methodical. Those who don’t have the time or desire to buy a basin wash it in sinks. But you can wash small things in the sink, but it was more difficult for us fairies in white trousers and white tunics. But that’s why we are fairies - we found a way out of the situation! And not with the help of a pumpkin and a magic wand, but with simple Russian ingenuity. We went in to wash (if there was hot water in the marina) right in what was available and turned on the shower. In other words, they washed it on themselves.
Cooking is a separate section of the navigation topic. There is a stove in the hold. It swings, maintaining a horizontal position. This allowed us not only to cook while moving, but also to regularly boil the kettle for tea or coffee. In general, yachts are rented with a full set of dishes and knives, right down to a coffee maker, so if we wanted, we could easily afford a blanc mange with jelly, but frankly, I don’t have the time or desire to tinker with ready-to-wear cooking under an inflated sail. Sweeping the deck turned out to be an extremely exciting activity. At least because it is one of the cures for sea motion. This is what ship work was invented for, and the size of a yacht deck is tiny - it’s a sin not to carry a mop.
The daily routine, depending on the place of overnight stay, begins either with swimming (wild bay) or with breakfast (overnight in the marina). Then again, depending on... bathing again, “taking off your panties” and weighing anchor, or division according to interests - some for sightseeing, some for swimming or exploring a new beach, some for getting some sleep, some for drinking coffee on shore, and so on. Gathering at the agreed time and ritual removal of panties. There were situations when culture was located in places inaccessible to yachts. Then they threw off the cute little pot-bellied ace and rode on it to the shore. They threw Tuzik on a leash or agreed with someone from the team that at the agreed time we would call or we would stand here and there and that Schidt on the ice floe would desperately wave his arms.
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The architecture of seaside and island towns is not even shy about Italianity. Why be shy when part of the islands belonged to Italy before World War II, and the rest, over the course of centuries of history, were one way or another part of the Apennine neighbor or had serious trade relations with it. Red tiled roofs, narrow cobbled streets running up and down; lancet, “Venetian” windows of ancient houses; Baroque curlicues and Florentine rosettes on the facades of cathedrals, squares with a “pencil” clock tower, squares like palazzos, and of course, laundry on lines - where would we be without it. Dubrovnik, Hvar, Korcula, Mljet, Trogir, Skradenj, Shchebenik, they are all similar to each other, like children of the same parents, and just as different from each other. Hvar and Dubrovnik are older. These are well-fed and self-confident boys, Korcula is a modest girl, timidly lowering her tender blue eyes, Shchebenik is a handsome and bully, his mother’s favorite, Skraden is a quiet one, Mlet is a greedy toddler.
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And Skraden is truly quiet. At first glance, it is no longer remarkable except for the tourist boats going to the waterfalls of the Krka River. But if you enter it from the sea, then along the way you can see the high rocky banks of the Orinoco River. I'm not confusing anything. During the Soviet Union, films about good Indians and bad cowboys were shot here. It was here, where the river flows into the sea, that the handsome black-browed Gojko Mitich famously swept away fathoms in a wooden canoe, set snares for birds and hunted deer. The water near Skradnya is already river water - dark, “heavy” and smells of silt. The banks are lined with reeds, reeds and other marsh vegetation. Ducks quack, swans swim imposingly. We anchor, lower ourselves into the water and are surprised to discover that not only does it taste salty, but the lower layers are warmer than the upper ones! Let's dive to warm up! You can’t show this in a film; you have to feel it.
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“Excuse me,” I select a forty-two-foot “Odyssey” under the English flag as a victim, “Are you the last one to refuel?”
— Do you think we’re waiting for the bus here?
We smile and settle down near the Odyssey. But not everyone is so cultured; some strive to look like a fool. Some “Galata” thinks that she doesn’t have time to spend an hour and a half and is trying to wedge herself into the queue. The impudent “Galata” is being put in its place by the whole world and by all available means: shouting, whistling, hands, towels, I blow, or rather make a not very decent sound, with a brass pipe. Of course, it has a special nautical name, like a watch - flask, a toilet - latrine, even an inflatable boat is affectionately called - tuzik, but in terms of the sounds I make, the best name for a musical instrument is pipe.
After ten days of the trip, we already imagine ourselves as experienced sea wolves. We are completely relaxed - we don’t put on life jackets, we walk along the deck, despite the inflated sails, without bending down... The latter cost the life of the famous Russian navigator Evgeniy Gvozdev - he received a blow to the head with a boom. For me, the imaginary experience almost cost me a phalanx of my left little finger. Thanks to the acrylic on my nails, I held the sheet taut for a minute, under which my finger got caught, while the captain “turned” the boat, loosening the tension of the sails. The same relaxation caused the striptease that we, dressed in short dresses and tunics, showed to the entire gas station while pushing the yacht away from the pier with our feet while mooring on the side. But if we had tied the fenders higher, as the captain said, then who would have appreciated our “mooring” briefs?
Well, if I may say so, our regatta has come to an end. We rent out the yacht, load our things into the rented car and go to the airport, which is two hundred and forty kilometers away, twenty of which are in the territory of Bosnia and Herzegovina. So, at least fifteen minutes, I was still in Bosnia and Herzegovina; it’s a pity I didn’t buy a magnet. When will such an opportunity arise again? But the next case, I hope will never happen again - having arrived at Dubrovnik airport at one in the morning, we found out that it opens at five in the morning. So from the snow-white yacht we went straight to the snow-white benches. Well, such an experience, not counting bronchitis, can be considered useful; in future we will be more prudent.
That's all for sure now. Goodbye toy towns, picturesque bays, uninhabited islands. Goodbye, not very smiling, but still nice Croatians, “praise” you for the lemonade, “prosciutto” and “mixed meat”. Thank you for the warning that there is a “storm” on the island of Vis and forgive me that in supermarkets we behaved like in Auchan - one person takes a place, five run around with baskets. Don't be discouraged by cold water marinas, paid buoys and water taxis. We will come to you to play the harp next to the street musician; drink coffee on the steps of Diocletian's Palace under a cappello from under its domes; breathe in the salty pine air interspersed with lavender and rosemary; drink champagne with a cold oyster on the square in front of the port; look at the stone baptistery of the temple in Shchebenik and again sail between one thousand or so islands along the waves of the sea the color of old, well-worn turquoise. Dovidzhenya!
This section discusses general issues such as what is a vacation on a yacht, what is better to choose a motor or sailing yacht, who is the skipper, types of yacht charter and rental, yacht etiquette, standard terms of a yacht rental contract, how best to choose travel companions, sailing conditions along the sea coast of Croatia, weather conditions of the Adriatic Sea, etc. The cost of renting a yacht, if divided among a group of several people, is usually no more expensive, and in some cases even cheaper than the price of staying in a 4-5 star hotel. The impressions you get while cruising along the sea coast and around the islands cannot be compared with anything. Being a kind of floating hotel, the yacht in front of the hotel has many undeniable advantages. Compared to staying in a hotel, where every day there is the same beach, the same view from the window, the same city, there is no monotony and boredom when traveling on a yacht. In just one or two weeks of yachting you can visit many cities, islands, and attractions on the Adriatic coast that cannot be seen while living in a hotel or renting an apartment on the shore. Only on a yacht can you get closer to places that cannot be reached by ferry or passenger ship.
Traveling on a yacht in Croatia
If you are traveling on a yacht in Croatia under sail with the goal of having fun and simply relaxing from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, then simply sail in the direction where the fair wind blows; there will always be an island or a quiet closed bay on your way. Today you will stop at some place you like, and tomorrow you will move to another. You make the decision yourself because the hotel “room” moves with you and you have freedom of choice. The style of sailing on a yacht depends only on your personal preferences and mood. If you like silence, then choose quiet bays on the islands or small villages, next to which you can always anchor. If you prefer proximity to civilization and active entertainment, then moor in larger cities. Daily change of place is an undeniable advantage for those traveling on a yacht. Today you can walk in the forests or olive groves of the island of Hvar, and the next day you can visit and explore the palace of Emperor Diocletian in the city of Split, or simply enjoy the beauty of the clear sea and nearby islands. Moving from place to place, you will very quickly get used to greeting people who sail past you with your hand; greeting is a yachting tradition that all yachtsmen adhere to. Along the way of your voyage you are sure to meet many new friends who will stay with you for a long time. Typically, during a cruise, sea crossings last no more than 4-8 hours. This mode allows you to better enjoy sailing, have time to explore local attractions and have time to experience the nightlife on shore.
Every day the yacht docks at the marina, where the crew has the opportunity to relax and have fun on the shore or on board the boat. In addition, such a duration of day trips practically eliminates the development of seasickness.
Yachting
Yachting is a great opportunity to gain new unforgettable experiences and gain new skills. Sailing is the most ancient and respected skill in maritime affairs. “Taming” a yacht is a pleasure for everyone who likes to feel and control the power of the wind, stand at the helm, set and retract the sails, and steer with the wind. To operate a sailing yacht, you need knowledge of marine navigation and the technical features of the vessel, good physical fitness and quick reaction. Almost everyone who has sailed on a yacht with a captain usually cannot resist the temptation to control the yacht on their own, learn to tie sea knots and try to understand the intricacies of sail control. After swimming, you will be proud of the experience you have acquired, which will always be useful in everyday life, and most likely your friends and acquaintances will quietly envy you. Take the opportunity to try and learn something new and have an unforgettable sailing experience.
How great it is to have people around you who push you to take decisive action.
One evening, while visiting us, my husband’s colleagues suggested we fly to Croatia, rent a yacht and go camping. Ha, everyone laughed and the matter died down. But a month later, a mysterious husband came home from work, persuaded me to take a vacation, get ready quickly and trust him) I received answers to 1000 and 1 questions in parts, as if I was participating in a quest) Instead of a suitcase, I was asked to take 2 hiking backpacks, so I decided to be bored you don't have to! And now our whole friendly group is on the plane, a flight with transfers through Vienna, and beautiful Austria overboard.
September was not chosen by chance: firstly, work is not as crowded as in summer and winter, and secondly, prices in September are lower than in the season, and there are not crowds of tourists, and this is the main thing. Essentially, the same service for less money, and the weather continues to please, the sea is not cold, the rays of the sun warm, the sunrises are pleasing. In short, September is a pretty good month for a cruise.
Getting to know Croatia, Split airport, port, first hike and overnight stay
Soft landing at the airport in Split (Central Dalmatia), security passed, we loaded into a taxi (12 euros / car), it cost us 15.50 euros to get to the port, we were there) We met the captain of the yacht (speaks excellent Russian, knows 5 languages, I managed to practice with it even in German)
The route was developed by our beloved men, and the weak half of humanity, that is, we, trusted it, especially since none of the Ladies knows anything about sailing on a yacht. On the spot, the captain of the yacht made adjustments to our route, we loaded up and moved away from the shore. Let me make a reservation right away: renting a yacht for a week cost 1,800 euros, there were 4 of us married couples, the budget was shared. Frankly, my soul was filled with emotions: fear, adrenaline, buzz, and joy mixed with worries, because there was something new and unknown ahead.
Split was impressive, but this town is similar to many European cities, with ancient churches, narrow quiet streets, small cafes and incredibly delicious fish dishes. We were leaving the port, emotions were overwhelming, the flight was planned back from Split, therefore it was planned to explore the city in detail on the way back.
Having completely trusted the captain of the yacht, she was lost in thought and looking at the expanses of the Adriatic. Until recently, I didn’t even dream of going on a yacht, but now we are on a yacht and steering towards our dream. Along the way there are ships, cruise liners, birds landing on the railings of yachts, cozy islands - and absolutely everyone wants to get off and see with their own eyes.
A beautiful sunset, aromatic wine, a divine dinner (downstairs in the dining room) with a guitar... It seemed like this was a dream and all this was not with me)
For the first time in my life I spent the night on a yacht, I’ll tell you, it’s really okay! You sleep like at home, the salty smell of the wind, the sea, you don’t want to wake up...
The next morning began with fishing. Oh, this is mega entertainment! There is a special drive when you manage to pull out a fish, and it’s doubly enjoyable if you cook it)
I love independence when traveling, and I was very worried that during a week on the yacht we wouldn’t get tired of each other, but we even managed to miss our friends and not always meet each other.
Yacht. Primosten and Trogir
Our weekly route consisted of 4 cities and intermediate small villages: Split, Trogir, Primosten and Marina. We didn’t notice how we reached Primosten. Narrow streets, old churches (remarkably, they are open around the clock - for us this is nonsense. You can enter at 23.00.
Fish markets, fresh seafood, small cafes, beautiful cozy beaches (mostly free) and thousands of yachts with the same tourists on board as we are)
This snack for one cost us 4.5 euros.
There are many fishermen on the shore with whom you can exchange a few phrases. The older generation is not inferior to the younger generation: it’s nice to see how the old woman herself is in a boat with oars, catching fish, dragging nets and sorting. We even managed to talk to her, she told us amazing recipes for fish dishes
The beaches surprised us with their cleanliness: Primosten is perhaps the only city where the free beaches are clean and cozy. After 20.00 you can take a sunbed for free, lay down a blanket, sit down and relax.
In general, our vacation turned out to be so easy, carefree in one breath. Even ordinary walls are beautiful here, with drop-down tables built into them so you can have a snack along the way. I recommend latte, expresso (a large glass will cost 2.5-3 euros).
The beaches of Primosten with rocky shores, uneven slopes in some places, and daring wildlife reminded me of the beaches of Migea (Ukraine, rafting resort). By the way, there is also a raft here.
And the fragrant spruces on the rocks?! This aroma is incomparable: both gentle and daring, like the warmth of brown eyes.
Primosten is a historical town with sights at every step.
What is worth having for dinner - pork dishes, dried on coals. Dinner with salads. ham and wine for 8_x cost us 137 euros.
Primosten was so impressed that the council decided to pay for a simple yacht and spend the night on land.
There were many hotels; we chose them based on reviews and pricing policy. The choice fell on Villa Lorenta, a few km from the city center and 50 meters from the beautiful rocky beach. The hotel has the opportunity to eat yourself in their kitchenette, you can stock up on groceries in the supermarket, or you can arrange for groceries to be delivered.
The apartment cost 55 euros for 4 people, we rented 2 rooms for 4 people.
We met the sunset on the rocks of a rocky beach, extraordinary beauty. We chatted, dreamed and came to the conclusion that this was the most crazy vacation, filled with impressions and positive things. It was so good there on the rocks that I didn’t want to go to the hotel, or home, or even to our yacht. Despite spending an active time on vacation, this time all we did was relax, and this blunder didn’t get boring!
The next morning we had a quick breakfast and went to the port to our yacht. The captain was already preparing to leave, we loaded up, threw in coins to return and began to leave.
Our path lay in Trogir, before we had time to look back we were already in this cozy small town, which is famous not only for viticulture, but also for yacht design.
There are very cool fish restaurants and delicious dishes, such as fish plate (a fairly large dish, ideal with white wine). Dinner for two cost us 48 euros.
I advise you to set aside at least a day for a walk around the city, visit the city hall, the Gothic church on the 14th century embankment, the cathedral, and be sure to pay attention to the Kamerlengo (an ancient fortress with stunning views of the Old Town).
Having said goodbye to the captain and thanked us, we went to dinner at a local restaurant. The husbands still visited the pub. By prices -
acceptable, glass of beer -2/4 euros.
After dinner, we rented a car (70 euros) and drove off to Marina, then to go to the Split airport. There it was decided to spend the night in the Marina Mila apartments. The village of Marina itself is small, there is a fairly good infrastructure here, there is a hypermarket, a pub, 2 restaurants, a cafe, and you can buy vegetables, fruits and seafood cheaply at the local market. The beaches are small with pebbles, but clean and cozy.
Our hotel consisted of 7 complexes, cozy and quite spacious terraces and a huge swimming pool.
We rented 3 rooms (apartments): a room for 4, and 2 rooms for two. I really wanted romance, my money allowed, so my husband and I decided to spend the night separately).
Marina-Split. Homecoming
The week flew by unnoticed. Behind us are so many positive things, bright colors, indescribable sensations, drive of emotions...
As much as I didn’t want to, I had to return to Split. The journey took 25 minutes (14 km from the Marina to the airport).
We walked around the city, there were so many yachts that I wanted to leave everything and go back to the sea, but alas...
Work and routine awaited us at home, we took pictures, had lunch and went to registration...
Lunch (hot tomato soup with rice) cost 18 euros for two.
Work to travel, enjoy your vacation, try national cuisine. Croatian dishes are teeming with variety and will satisfy the most demanding gourmet. What I have personally tried, I recommend to you: Pašticada (beef stewed in wine, served with dumplings. Tomato soup with rice and Sarma (cabbage rolls) - delicious food that is worth trying, fish plateau, desserts, white wine...
This was the best sea trip in Croatia. Come back here definitely: a flurry of emotions that no trip abroad will give you.
First I'll say briefly and most importantly - it's amazing! This is a must try!
Well, now the details. :) I met the yacht in 2010 thanks to _boxa_ -, crossing the Black Sea and back, traveling along the coast of Turkey... This is not bullshit. After that, unfortunately, I never managed to get to his yacht again, despite the fact that he called. Alas, business, projects and this very freelance...
And I was in Croatia in 2008 - then we drove through national parks, looked at nature and life in this wonderful country.
Now it's time to put it all together. And when I received an offer from the yacht tour operator Friends Travel to spend a week on their yacht somewhere near the coast of Croatia, I agreed without hesitation. Fortunately, a week-long window had just opened up in my travel schedule.
I’ll say right away that yachting is not a vacation at an exorbitant price, as it might seem. Now there are two packages: 800 and 1170 euros per person. The first is only yachting. The second is the same, but plus flight and insurance if you don’t want to do it yourself. You can read what you get for this money on the website. And I will tell you and show you my emotions from a week-long trip to the beautiful islands of Croatia in the middle Dolmatia.
1. You start your journey at Kastela’s home marina - it’s not far from the airport. You get here on your own, but it’s very easy to do - either a taxi or a bus. Here you meet the skipper, first mate and crew of the yacht - those who decided to prefer an exciting trip to a banal beach + hotel holiday.
2. A yacht is first and foremost a sail! In Croatia, the season lasts from April to October, and each month has its own conditions. July is the hottest, but also the quietest in terms of winds. But you can swim from dawn to dusk. And, to be honest, you can swim at night too.
3. If you don’t know how to set a sail and don’t know a single knot, that’s not a problem. The yacht has a professional skipper who will take care of everything. If you want, you can participate in the life of the crew and help them. If you don't want to, don't. As the senior mate said, one day they were walking a group of seven glamorous girls in stiletto heels, who every night needed a new city with a nightclub. During the day they slept and gained strength before a new party. Such a vacation can also happen. Everyone chooses and gets what they want.
4. One of the advantages of yachting is a non-fixed route. Initially, we were supposed to go to Krka Park to see the waterfalls, but since almost everyone was there, we decided to forget about it and immediately taxi to the islands.
5. Charlie, a professional skipper, explains to Olga the basics of sailing a yacht. How to catch the wind and what to do with it all. And the pleasure of sailing a yacht... it’s hard to compare it with anything, you have to try it.
6. In addition to paying for the tour, when checking into the yacht, about 200 euros are contributed to the general treasury. This money is used to purchase food, pay for fuel after the trip, pay for parking in marinas and other general expenses. The specific amount depends on the number of people in the crew. Moreover, according to tradition, the crew feeds the skipper, and the first mate only pays for food. It is worth saying that the yacht is not a five-star hotel. The conditions are comfortable, everything you need is on board, but expect chandeliers, candelabra and room service, etc. not worth it. This is just a comfortable and slightly unusual house. A day later it already seemed to me that I had been living here for a long time. Everything was so familiar and understandable.
7. You also need to understand that a yacht is not a car and moves slowly. Typically the speed is between 5 and 10 knots. The engine is stable at 4-6. Under sail - from zero to ten. But the surrounding reality is so beautiful that there is no time to be bored. This includes oncoming traffic - just look at this beautiful liner! Nature, sailing, talking, etc. and so on. If you get bored, you can always sleep.
8. But the main thing is the crew. If you rent a yacht with a group, then everyone already knows each other. It is easier. In this case, no one knew anyone except the married couple, but that didn't stop everyone from having a wonderful week together and making friends. Although it happens that there is no common language. But you have to be a very strong beech not to get along with the others on such a trip.
9. Our first stop was planned in Hvar, but it was a bummer. It turns out that at that moment there was a yacht week in Croatia. This is a huge number of boats that move from one party city to another and party, party, party. Having fun. But there’s no room in the marina!
10. Also yachting, of course. But the price of one linear meter of such a vessel is from a million dollars. Maintenance, fuel... If you are not an oligarch, this is not your choice.
11. A modern sailing yacht (or catamaran, as in the photo) is also not cheap: from 150,000 euros and above. Maintenance per year - from 20,000. And also parking, repairs and other expenses. Br...
12. But to rent... Yes, almost all of Croatia and Italy sail on rented yachts. This is quite accessible to everyone. Now, as they say, in Russia too. But still on a yacht to Croatia. Or to Turkey. Or the Caribbean. There is a sea everywhere, and it’s good there.
13. And we came to the bay of Hvar itself and dropped anchor in it. Like a dozen other yachts.
14. We got to the shore on an inflatable boat - a “tuzik” (it is called a tuzik, like a dog, because at sea it is tied to a yacht and runs behind it along the waves). Dinner in Hvar and back to our house to sleep.
15. Skipper's workplace. The yacht is equipped with the most modern equipment. Radar, navigation system, autopilot(!), walkie-talkies and much more useful things. You can try twisting and pressing almost all of this.
16. Our yacht is Kali. Almost 48 feet, the flagship of the fleet. Luxury salon, all business... :)
17. We disembark to swim to the Blue Cave. Fantastic place, just a game of nature's mood.
18. I'm already crazy about this picture. A minute earlier, I was stunned by the fact that a boat was floating near the entrance of the cave, where a cashier was sitting, who was writing out a ticket for 40 kuna (payment from the ship’s cash register)!!! There is also a poster hanging nearby that states that swimming and photography are prohibited. But no one cares. And they take pictures and even swim in the cave.
19. Light penetrates into it only through small natural holes in the rock and, reflecting from the white limestone bottom, colors everything around in silver-blue tones.
20. I can’t help but admire once again how he takes off the third nickel in such conditions. ISO 12000... I’m even afraid to imagine what people there are filming on point-and-shoot cameras with flashes.
21. But July is hot. And the heat means swimming. If you want to stand all day in a deserted bay and swim - welcome. If you want to ride fenders, welcome. As Charlie says, "It's your vacation!"
22. But fender riding brings a lot of emotions and positive emotions!
23. Our skipper is Charlie. Extra-class yacht master. He crossed the Atlantic several times. An eternal optimist and a wonderful person. He spent half his life working as a mechanical engineer and designing off-road vehicles, then volunteered for the British Army, where he rose to the rank of regimental commander, fought in Afghanistan, and has now been sailing for many years. Traveled more than 40,000 miles at sea. By the way, all skippers are mega-positive people. There is no other way to do this kind of work.
24. Well, we are still riding fenders :)
25. One of the parking lots. Marina is busy again, so we stand on the buoy. By the way, 200 kuna! And another 75 for an unlimited toilet and shower.
26. I don’t remember where, but it doesn’t matter. Just beautiful! Some smaller parinas offer free parking as long as you dine in their restaurant. One such dinner cost us just over 1000 kuna for six. Moreover, there was a lot of food and it was very tasty. And the local white wine was simply divine.
27. Well, specialists. What kind of animal? How much it rushes, how much it eats, and in general, why is this vessel so strange?!
28. Mimimi beetle. Violet! Is this a replica or an original?
29. Well, we move on. By the way, I highly recommend not drinking on a yacht. No, this is up to you, but... firstly, seasickness with alcohol can be very insidious, and secondly - why? In the evening at a restaurant is one thing. There's great wine, dinner and company. But during the day it's just hot. As the senior mate said, in one company there was a man who had not dried out since the morning. They tied his leg with a scarf so that he wouldn’t fall overboard. So he lay on the deck all day. But sunbathing is welcome. But remember, the sun doesn’t sleep either. Getting heatstroke is like nothing to do. Okay, relax. Everything is simple and good there :)
30. Charlie is a fan of traditional navigation. Despite the fact that he has a hard time, he uses a sextant for pleasure. It was made in the 80s... and when crossing the Atlantic he had to use a device made in the 20s of the last century. And it worked great!
31. One of the bays on the island of Lastovo. There is an abandoned military bunker here. I'll post a report from there soon.
32. But even without a bunker, this bay is worth stopping and swimming.
33. Naturally, you need to climb the mast.
34. Unforgettable sensations and emotions. Especially when the boat is rocking.
35. My happy and unshaven face is at the top of the mast.
36. Magic Korcula.
37. Very elderly people live on this yacht. They go to sea very rarely, but the yacht itself is in impeccable condition.
38. Mooring of another yacht in the marina.
39. Old town in Korcula.
40. Sunset view from the cocktail tower.
42. Then I remembered that I have a fish eye!
43. Olga, who is in the foreground, is on the yacht for the second time. And Ilya and Masha are the first.
44. Misha, first mate. Professional golfer and yachtsman.
45. Hurray, wind! Everyone sets the sails and turns up the heat. Alas, it doesn't last long. :(
46. The last night takes place in a deserted rocky bay. Here we have dinner and sleep for a couple of hours. We get up at four in the morning, swim at night and go early.
47. Sunrise at sea... It's just beautiful.
This is where the trip around the islands of Croatia ended. It was a wonderful week. Thanks to Charlie, Misha, Olga, Ilya and Masha for the wonderful company. Thank you
"Pearl of the Balkans"
“The Pearl of the Balkans” - Croatia and Montenegro is a gourmet European holiday destination. These countries are quiet, calm and homely, very rich in attractions. Here you can spend hours walking along the promenades of ancient towns, receiving an unimaginable positive charge for the future. The nature of these places will definitely amaze you with its riot of greenery, the turquoise of the sea, and its pristine ecological purity.
Rocky beaches, water clarity up to fifty meters deep, mild climate - all this will make your vacation unforgettable. A vacation in these countries will also delight you with the peace and sedateness inherent in Croats and Montenegrins.
Dubrovnik is one of the most beautiful cities in the world, with unique architecture (it is not without reason that it is protected by UNESCO as a cultural monument of world significance), picturesque bays, rich Mediterranean vegetation and the clearest water of the warm sea. Long beaches, a wonderful climate and excellent hotels make a holiday here extremely pleasant.
Route- Bar - Dubrovnik - Korcula island - Ston island - Cavtat - Herceg Novi - Kotor - Perast - Gorgija island - Tivat (Porto Montenegro) - Budva - St. Nicholas island - Mamula island - Bar
Sights of Dubrovnik
The Old Town is the most beautiful and ancient part of Dubrovnik. The center of the Old Town is Stradun or Placa, a busy street that cuts the fortress into two unequal parts. Once upon a time there was a strait that separated the island part of the city from the mainland. The main square of Dubrovnik is the Lodge (Luza), on which rises the City Belfry - a tetrahedral clock tower. And nearby is the graceful Small Fountain of Onofrio della Cava. The city is surrounded by fortress walls built in the 11th-15th centuries. Their length is 1940 meters and their height is 25 meters. On the land side the walls are double. The thickness of each wall is 4-6 meters, and on the sea side it is 1.5-3 meters.
The Minceta Tower, which rises above the fortress, offers a beautiful view of the city.
Lovjenac Fortress is a famous free-standing fortress built on a 37-meter cliff.
The Franciscan monastery was built in the 13th century, but then at the beginning of the 14th century, due to possible military danger, it was moved under the protection of the fortress wall. The monastery courtyard is very beautiful with a colonnade of double hexagonal pillars, each of which has its own unique capital.
The Prince's Palace is one of the most important architectural monuments not only of the city, but of the entire Adriatic coast.
National cuisine of Croatia
The national cuisine of Croatia is rightfully considered one of the best in Europe in terms of the variety of dishes and the richness of their flavors.
The country's favorable climatic conditions make it possible to use fresh or cooked vegetables for cooking, all possible varieties of meat, including game, and in the beautiful Adriatic there are over 100 species of edible fish and shellfish. South Croatian cuisine is considered one of the healthiest and most dietary in the world, thanks to the use of olive oil in almost every recipe.
The cuisine of Montenegro is replete with a large variety of vegetables, meat and spices. Seafood dishes are common: fish goulash made from various types of fish. You can try smoked bleak, which is caught in Lake Skadar. It is cooked on a roasting pan and served with high-quality dry red wine “Vranac”.
Montenegro has a national alcoholic drink - lozovac, grape moonshine made from the best grape varieties. Lozovac is usually served with the best ham, which is produced in Njegusi, a small town near Cetinje. In addition to pork, Montenegrins love and cook lamb superbly.
