Hardly the Atlantic coast Spain or France will become a popular trend this season. Most people, out of habit, will choose something beautiful, but rather hackneyed. Costa Brava , Costa Blanca or Costa Dorada on the Mediterranean Sea. Mainly due to the relative ease of transfer there from Kyiv.
But suddenly someone wants a new sensation, a cool salty breeze from the Atlantic, a delicious tortilla with salted cod. Or plunge into medieval Pamplona and see the famous San Fermin - a festival during which the bull runs through the city streets. Then you are in the Basque country, in San Sebastian and its surroundings.
Atlantic coast and center of the country, San Sebastian- gastronomic and culinary capital of Europe, the Basque country. Where to stay, what to see, what to do and how to spend two days on the Atlantic coast. Basic sights of San Sebastian and where to go around the city. How to get there - main airports, railway, bus and rented car.
Travel route in Spain
The idea of traveling around Spain had been brewing for a long time; the thirst for travel was fueled by good prices for flights to Barcelona with early booking. We started the route from Barcelona, primarily because we knew this city well, and we also wanted to visit the warm Costa Brava. In addition to this, we literally captured the hot Zaragoza (+42), the cool (+29) coast of the Bay of Biscay - San Sebastian and Zarautz, and then went to the San Fermin festival (pictured) (running of the bulls through the city streets). The intermediate finish in Valencia and on the Costa Blanca lasted for five whole days. In addition, at least a dozen small stops in cities and towns, including all .
For those who are not in the know, San Sebastian or Donostia San Sebastian as the Basques call it, is located on the Atlantic coast of Spain, in the Basque country and is only 50 km away. from France and the famous resort of Biarritz. It was not by chance that I remembered France. San Sebastian is in some places almost a clone of Paris, but in the summer it’s better here because there is the Ocean.
When to go on holiday to San Sebastian
In the summer there is nothing to do in the center of Spain, but we still stopped in Zaragoza in transit at the end of July. This is desert heat in the 40s and practically empty cities during the day; mid-summer is the low season for most cities in central Spain. The exception is Pamplona, which hosts the San Fermin festival at this time. We will talk about this separately.
San Sebastian- This is the Atlantic coast, so the high season there is at the end of summer, mid-July-August. True, the high season, in addition to the weather, brings with it flocks of migrating wealthy Europeans who come to the Basque country for gastronomic emotions, simply the fantastic beauty of the city, located in a picturesque bay and comfortable weather.
San Sebastian– an expensive resort, I would even say very expensive. Cannes, in comparison, is a rural holiday in the suburbs of Nice, and Nice lags behind in terms of prices.
Beaches of San Sebastian
La Concha- the most photographed, most visited and most popular beach on the entire Atlantic coast of Spain. In August it is a hellish place where a normal person has nothing to do. It’s good that we don’t like to lie on the beach, preferring walks or sitting in a bar.
The only plus of this beach, at least in high season, is its photogenicity. A beautiful bay, an island, two hills on either side and a promenade-embankment. There are quite a lot of angles.
Ondarretta– a very slightly less popular beach, located near Igueldo Mountains, which offers one of the best views of the city. The same coarse yellow sand and beautiful bay. I liked this beach more, besides there are many small hotels near it.
In addition to the two main beaches there is another 100% surfing spot Zurriola beach and a beach on a small island that blocks the waves from entering the bay. There are boats going to the island beach. We didn't get there. 
What to see besides beaches, sights of San Sebastian
Old city San Sebastian 
Walk around the city and see ancient and very beautiful buildings and cathedrals from the 19th century. City Hall, Constitution Palace, Cathedral, Victoria Eugenia Theater. 
The truth is Paris Seems like? 
Walk through Maria Cristina Bridge, which is reminiscent of Parisian bridges. 
Climb to Mount Igeldo. You can do this by cable car; we went up on foot. This is the best place - a natural observation deck over the city. 
Castle on grief Urgull.
Go to Aquarium- Europe's largest aquarium, located at the end of the promenade on the embankment. Of all the European and American aquariums I have visited, this is the best. 
Square Gipuzkoa, a park Miramar next to Ondaretta Beach and Miramar Palace. There are several other parks of a lower rank that we did not reach. 
Where to eat in San Sebastian
– a more gastronomic city than Paris. This is evidenced by 16 restaurants marked with stars from the Michelin Red Guide, of which three restaurants are marked with Michelin three times. And this is for 180,000 inhabitants. By the standards of Ukraine - Ivano-Frankivsk or Dneprodzerzhinsk. So, Paris! Let's goodbye! For me, for example, it was a revelation.
Suddenly one of the readers wants to dine on a special gastronomic experience. Especially for you, friends, addresses of restaurants marked with 3 Michelin stars. And don’t even think that this is a tourist feature, more than half of the visitors are locals and it’s also hard to believe. It's better to check once.
How to get there? Call a taxi, give the name of the restaurant or address.
Akelarri3*
Pº Padre Orkolaga,56 (Igeldo), C.P. 20008, Donostia San Sebastian, tel 943 311209, Email –
The approximate cost of the menu is 170 euros; for dinner for two, prepare at least 450 euros.
Arzak3*
Avenida del Alcalde Jose Elosegi, 273, tel.943 28 5593, Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You must have JavaScript enabled to view it.
Martin Berasategui3*
Loidi Kalea, 4, Lasarte-Oria, tel.943 36 64 71 Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You must have JavaScript enabled to view it.
The menu price is 185 euros, dinner for two is approximately 500 euros, and the feast lasts at least three hours.
Mugaritz2*
Otzazulueta Basseria/Aldura aldea, 20 zk. Errenteria, nel. 943 51 8343/943 52 2455 E-mail: This email address is being protected from spambots. You must have JavaScript enabled to view it.
Despite the fact that there are “only” two stars, the prices are the same as in previous options... menu cost 185 euros, dinner for two about 4 hundred euros. This is an experimental restaurant that the chef converted from an old farmhouse.
Going to such restaurants is more than just lunch or dinner; it’s not at all about pathos, which is also present. I'm not a fan of pretentious places and I don't care how many stars a restaurant or hotel has. But this is clearly different, this is an experience that I personally would like to try. And only then draw your own conclusions.
Where can a simple tourist dine?
Wherever you enjoy the view both inside and outside the cafe. For example a restaurant La Perla overlooking the beach La Concha. Lunch at a cafe with a beautiful ocean or street view or a tapas bar with its characteristic hanging pork butts will cost around 20-40 euros per person. It's worth a visit to one of the many cider cellars, several in the surrounding hills. Just be careful - cider is a treacherous drink! Try the tortilla with salted cod and steaks, we really liked it. We tried to repeat it at home - because it did NOT work, and this despite the remarkable culinary abilities of my wife. 
There is also traditionally a lot of fast food on the city streets, but we won’t talk about it, okay?
How to get to San Sebastian
Within a radius of 100 km. There are three airports through which it is convenient to get to
San Sebastian Airport (EAS)– 20 km. from the city, the Spanish low-cost airline Vueling flies to this airport from popular Madrid and Barcelona
Bilbao Airport (BIO)– 105 km. from the city, an international airport to which all of Europe flies
Biarritz Airport (BIQ)– 40 km. from the city, French airlines and low-cost airlines such as Ryanair fly here
There are hundreds of options to fly if you actively use low-cost airlines in combination with UIA and/or Air France/KLM
Kyiv-San Sebastian, 2 transfers, Kyiv-Vilnius (UIA, Wizz Air) – Vilnius-Barcelona (El Prat) (Ryanair) – Barcelona-San Sebastian (Vueling) – price 350 – 500 dollars
Besides, in Spain flies Iberia and Lufthansa. Alternatively, fly to Madrid and from there drive a rental car along the Atlantic coast along Basque Country.
Get to Madrid easier, for example, through Budapest, to which the same WizzAir flies from Kyiv. Or Lufthansa, which often has promotions on cheap air tickets. 
How to buy a cheap air ticket to Spain
I've been using search for over a year now. aviasales– clear functionality, different modes of searching for tickets, flexible dates and the ability to choose an arrival airport that is nearby. In addition, aviasales supports searching for low-cost airlines. We fill in the route, for example Kyiv-Madrid or Kyiv - San Sebastian , Moscow – Madrid or Moscow - and choose the best price for air travel.
How to get to San Sebastian from Spanish cities
From cities in Spain you can get by train, company http://www.renfe.com/EN/viajeros/index.html
By bus. A new bus terminal has opened in San Sebastian, from which lovers of budget bus travel can travel throughout Europe.
Terminal address: Paseo Federico Garcia Lorca 1, 20.014 Donostia, near the train station.
By car
From Madrid it's easy to get to San Sebastian via the N1 motorway, the A15 from Pamplona, the AP-8 from Bilbao and the A-63 from Paris.
How to rent a car in Spain
From Kyiv or from Moscow convenient to fly to Madrid, from there travel by rental car, for example to Zaragoza, Pamplona And . I rent a car in . An accessible and intuitive interface, flexible prices, a large selection of not only international but also local rental offices - ideal for budget travelers. 
How to book a hotel in San Sebastian
You can directly to Booking.com – Hotels in San Sebastian . Those who want more choice and a wide price range usually search on the mega-search engine HotelsCombined (Room Guru). There are many budget accommodation options in San Sebastian and the surrounding area.
Of the good ones 4* hotels I can recommend:
Hotel Astoria 7, for those who love cinema - each hotel room is dedicated to a movie star and is uniquely decorated accordingly
Hotel Barcello Costa Vasco, 500 meters from Ondaretta beach and close to the Miramar Palace, an outdoor swimming pool that is open in July-August.
Hotel NH Collection Aranzazu– I love this hotel chain, besides N.H. Conveniently located - close to the beach and all the main attractions
Hotel La Galeria– located near Ondaretta beach, the hotel itself is a historical building of the 19th century, in the French style. This hotel has the coolest view of La Concha Beach.
Hotel Parma– in the city center, near the old city, almost on the bay, next to Congress Hall.
How to make your holiday in San Sebastian cheaper
To rent an apartment. Make it more convenient through Booking.com - apartments in San Sebastian
, prices in good areas near the ocean start from 50 euros per night. Travel with a group– in this case, we divide the costs between and for everyone, it turns out to be about 2-3 times cheaper. Cook at home. Apartments are again suitable for this.
You can make your holiday even more budget-friendly if you stay not in the town itself, but in the town Zarautz. A beautiful embankment, a much deserted beach, but also a more open ocean and, as a result, higher waves. In fact, the beach is not suitable for swimming, and there are strong tides in the afternoon. 
Ideal for walking around the area, at the top right, if you are facing the embankment, there is a walking trail above the city along the steep cliffs. Fabulous views and an almost complete absence of tourists - this city is for those who like to plunge into the local atmosphere of the Basque Country. There are practically no tourists here, especially from the CIS countries.
Useful links when planning your travels
Rentalcars – a site for searching and renting cars all over the world with the possibility of free cancellation
The city of San Sebastian in the Basque Country is considered by many to be the most beautiful city in Spain. It has a population of 183,000 people and is located 103 km from the capital of the Basque Country, Vitoria, 473 km from Madrid and just 18 km from the French border.
The Basques call this city Donostia or Donostia, and since 1980 it has been officially called Donostia-San Sebastian.
History of San Sebastian
The name of the city was given by the monastery of San Sebastian. The city was founded in 1180 by the king of Navarre, Sancho the Wise, although some historians place the date of its founding as far back as a century and a half. The city was a seaport for the Kingdom of Navarre, but after 1200 it came under the rule of the Castilian crown, which gave impetus to its rapid development. This flourishing made possible the repeated revival of the city: in the first two centuries of its existence, it burned to the ground six times. A fire in January 1489 turned the city into a pile of ash, after which it began to be rebuilt from stone.
The revived San Sebastian became a naval fortress and the base of the Cantabrian Armada, which fought until the 19th century against the French, Dutch and English squadrons. The city was repeatedly under enemy siege. The constant state of war undermined its economy. In 1719, San Sebastian, with weakened fortifications, a small garrison and a lack of weapons and food, was first captured by the French, who abandoned it in 1721 after the conclusion of the Hague Peace Treaty. Exactly 200 years ago, in 1808, it was again captured by Napoleon's army and liberated in 1813. During the struggle for the city, only two churches and 35 houses survived the fire.
The city, revived once again, became the capital of the Basque province of Gipuzkoa in 1854. In 1863, after fierce debate, it was decided to dismantle the fortress walls that limited the growth and development of the city. After the death of King Alfonso XII, on the advice of doctors, his widow Queen Regent Maria Cristina chooses San Sebastian as her summer vacation spot. The city begins to quickly change its appearance: it was in those years that buildings began to appear, which later became its calling card.
In 1914, with the outbreak of the First World War, San Sebastian turned into one of the most cosmopolitan cities in Spain: Russian ballet troupes, French operetta actors, opera singers and artists of other genres perform there, and the casino is visited by such characters as Leon Trotsky, Mata Hari, Count of Romanones.
Sights of San Sebastian
San Sebastian, or simply Sanse, is also called little or southern Paris for the architectural style of the city's development borrowed from the French capital. One of the most beautiful buildings in San Sebastian is city hall, formerly home to a casino built in 1887.
The Buen Pastor Cathedral, whose construction was completed in 1897, stands majestically in the central part of the city. The Urumea River with its amazingly beautiful bridges divides San Sebastian into two parts. The Maria Christina and Kursaal bridges are especially impressive.
Miramar Palace, also called the Royal Palace, was built by order of the Royal House of Spain in 1893 according to the design of the English architect Selden Wornum, to whom the building owes its purely English style. The palace offers stunning views of Shell Bay. For many years it served as a summer residence for the royal family, which increased the city's attractiveness to tourists. Spanish and European nobility spent their summers in San Sebastian. Currently, the palace and its wonderful gardens are open to the public.
Every August from 1940 to 1975 in San Sebastian during Ayate Palace Dictator Francisco Franco also lived there, and he also held meetings of the Council of Ministers there. The Ayate Palace is located in the microdistrict of the same name, located on a small hill in the city center.
In 1909, a three-year construction project began simultaneously on the theater and the nearby luxury hotel Maria Cristina. The hotel was built according to the design of the French architect Charles Meves, the author of several Ritz hotels in different European cities, including Madrid. It is in “Maria Cristina” that stars arriving at the famous San Sebastian Film Festival stay.
On Mount Igueldo is located , built at the beginning of the twentieth century. The funicular goes there from the square, which is called Funicular Square. The mountain offers stunning views of the city's beaches and the bay.
In the old part of the city, at the end of the embankment, you can visit an aquarium with a transparent tunnel, from where you can watch sharks and other sea inhabitants. The Oceanographic Museum, located in the port, introduces visitors to the city's maritime history. IN Museum of San Telmo Interesting are 11 frescoes by the Catalan artist José Maria Serta with episodes from the history of Gipuzkoa, executed in sepia and gold on a red background. Its main commercial and financial artery, Libertad Avenue, runs through the city center. This is the longest street in the city, with a huge number of banks and boutiques concentrated on it.
Beaches of San Sebastian
The coastline of San Sebastian is interrupted by mountains, forming seashell-shaped beaches, hence the name of one of them - La Concha Beach, which is located opposite the Miramar Palace. Beaches with fine white sand are the pride of the city.
- La Concha is the most famous beach in Spain, located within the city. Its length is 1450 m, average width is 40 m.
- The 600m long beach of Ondarreta, lying between the Miramar Palace and Mount Igueldo, is less “prestigious” than La Concha. At the end of this beach is the composition “Crest of the Wind” by the famous sculptor and native of San Sebastian Eduardo Chillida.
- Zurriola Beach, 800 m long, is more open to the sea and is particularly popular with young people and surfers.
- Another small beach is located on the island of Santa Clara, which can be reached by shuttle boats or by swimming: it is located 500 m from Ondarreta.
San Sebastian International Film Festival
In September 1953, at the initiative of a group of local entrepreneurs, the International Film Festival was held in San Sebastian for the first time. The organization of the festival had two goals: to extend the city's summer season and to restore to it the former cultural life and glamor lost as a result of the Civil War. The success of the festival was enormous, and therefore the Franco regime took its organization under its wing. Over the years it has grown in importance and grown into one of the best film festivals in the world. Until 1999, the stage of the festival was the Victoria Eugenia Theater, and since 1999, screenings have been held in the modern Rafael Moneo congress hall, built opposite the Zurriola beach.
Cultural events
In addition to the International Film Festival, San Sebastian also hosts other cultural events.
- In July, the Jazz Festival is held here annually, which was born in 1965 and has become one of the main ones in Europe.
- Since 1939, classical music concerts have been held in the city every year for a month and a half.
- The traditional Week of Horror and Science Fiction Films began in 1990.
- Since 2003, a film festival has been held, the program of which includes films related to the topic of human rights.
- Other cultural events include a theater festival, an advertising festival, a surfing film festival and an electronic music festival.
- Several times a year, stages of various world and European sailing regattas take place in San Sebastian.
- On January 20, St. Sebastian’s Day, the city hosts a children’s “tamborrada”: about 5,000 children from local schools march with drumbeats along the central streets of the city. At the same time, throughout the entire 24 hours of the holiday, fifty adult groups with drums parade around San Sebastian.
Gastronomy
It is said that San Sebastian ranks first in the world for the number of Michelin stars per square meter. There are only two cities in the world with three three-star restaurants: San Sebastian and Paris. It is no coincidence that gastronomy is a local attraction.
The old part of the city is home to many bars and restaurants specializing in pintxos, miniature examples of gastronomic art. A visit to these establishments is part of the local culture and a kind of ritual that is mandatory for tourists.
Weather in San Sebastian
The weather in the Basque Country is different from other regions of Spain: it is much windier and rainier. However, if you remember the weather in most Russian cities, the local residents are very lucky. The average temperature in summer is 20–25 degrees Celsius, in winter – about +10, which makes the city and region an ideal place for water sports.
If you are going to the north of Spain or straight to the Basque Country, be sure to devote a few days to San Sebastian - you will not regret it. Contact the company by phone and we will help you organize interesting individual or group excursions with the best guides in the country.
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San Sebastian is a former fishing village and the largest exporter of olive oil to England and France, and today the largest city in the Basque Country, one of the most elegant and fashionable Spanish resorts and a paradise for surfers.
San Sebastian owes the origins of resort life to the wife of Emperor Napoleon III, Eugenia Montijo, who first brought the imperial court here. Modern San Sebastian is a resort mainly for Europeans: the French or British vacation here, and you almost never see Russians or Asians here.
Along with Madrid and Barcelona, San Sebastian is considered one of the most expensive cities in Spain.
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How to get there
By plane
San Sebastian has its own airport, but there are no direct flights from Russia to this city. Iberia and Vueling fly here with a transfer in Madrid or Barcelona; tickets cost from 300 EUR (round trip). The airport is located 22 km from the city center. You can get from there to the center by regular buses (they run frequently, the fare is 1.65-2.35 EUR) or by taxi (8-10 EUR). Prices on the page are as of September 2018.
There are four other airports in the vicinity of San Sebastian: in Bilbao, Vitoria, Pamplona and Biarritz.
By train
Air connections between San Sebastian and Russia are not very convenient, so many tourists prefer to fly to Madrid or Barcelona, and from there get to the city by land.
- The train from Barcelona runs three times a day: at 7:30, 14:10 and 15:30. Travel time is from 5.5 to 7 hours, depending on the train, the fare is from 25.90 EUR one way.
- Trains from Madrid leave 5 times a day, the first at 7:30 am and the last at 5:35 pm. The journey takes about 5 hours, the fare starts from 22.15 EUR one way.
San Sebastian is a large city, so trains come here from all over Spain, France, and there are also night trains from Paris and Lisbon.
If you are coming from France, be careful, as this country has its own San Sebastian, and it is a completely different city.
By bus
Bus service in the Basque Country, as well as in Spain as a whole, is well established. Buses are traditionally cheaper than trains, but the journey will be longer. The road from Bilbao to San Sebastian will take about 1.5 hours and cost 6-7 EUR one way. The bus from Madrid to San Sebastian takes 6-6.5 hours, a ticket costs from 15 EUR one way.
Search for flights to Barcelona (the nearest airport to San Sebastian)
Weather in San Sebastian
The climate in San Sebastian is temperate Atlantic. In summer there is no intense heat; the temperature rarely rises above +25 °C. The maximum number of tourists occurs from May to September; at this time it is almost always sunny here, but in winter and in the off-season it is often rainy.
By mid-November the weather deteriorates, and in winter there is usually no more than +7...+10 °C. In the second half of April it becomes warm again - the air warms up to +20 °C, and everything blooms.
San Sebastian is located on the ocean, so the water in the local bays is not as warm as in other Spanish resorts. Comfortable temperatures for swimming range from July to September.
The Atlantic climate is quite unpredictable: in the off-season it is equally likely to be cloudy and rainy, or sunny.
San Sebastian Hotels
Most hotels in San Sebastian are concentrated in the city center (El Centro). The center, in turn, is usually divided into two parts: the Old Quarter (parte vieja) and Miraconcha.
The Old Quarter contains the main city attractions; it is very colorful and beautiful, with many bars and restaurants. However, it can be noisy at night, and since many hotels occupy historical buildings, there are interruptions in hot water and other amenities.
In the Miraconcha area, the hotels are more modern; this is where the main city beach and the beautiful promenade along it are located. Accordingly, prices in this quarter are the highest in the city.
Outside the historic center there are several interesting areas. It’s also convenient to live in, there are relatively few tourists, and prices are slightly lower than in the center:
- Amara vieja (Old Amara) - this residential area is adjacent to the center and is considered prestigious among the local population.
- Gros is the city's shopping center, with many shops, street cafes and inexpensive bars. This is where the Zuriola surfer beach is located.
- El Antiguo is a quiet, calm neighborhood often chosen by families with children; the family beach Ondarreta is located here.
- Eguia is a green area, home to the large urban park Cristina Enea and the main train station.
The most luxurious hotel in San Sebastian is Maria Cristina, a luxury collection 5*, the only five-star hotel in the city, located overlooking the Bay of Biscay. From June to October, the hotel's restaurant is run by Michelin-starred French chef Hélène Darroze. A double room here costs from 500 EUR per night.
A 4* hotel in the city center will cost from about 80-150 EUR, a good three-ruble note can be rented from 60 EUR, a room in a guest house - from 45 EUR per day for a double room, and a bed in a hostel - from 20 EUR per day per person.
Beaches of San Sebastian
Famous Playa de la Concha(Playa de la Concha) in the shape of a crescent is located in the city center in a quiet bay, surrounded by lush tropical vegetation. Tourists and locals love it for its well-groomed environment and beautiful views. Right on the shore is the hydropathic resort la Perla, which offers health and beauty treatments.
In the center of the bay, which follows the shape of a shell, is the small island of Santa Clara with a small lighthouse on top, surrounded by many sailing yachts. On both sides of the bay there are two mountains: on the left there is a beautiful castle and an amusement park, on the right there is a statue of Christ.
Playa de Ondaretta(Playa de Ondaretta) - a quieter and calmer clean beach with coarse yellow sand. This is a popular place for a relaxed family holiday; there are also frequent waves, and then surfers come to this beach. It is separated from Playa de da Concha by the Pico del Loro rock: for the convenience of vacationers, a tunnel has been cut through it.
Beach Playa de Zurriola(Playa de Zuriola) was formerly known as Playa de Gros. It is open to all winds and therefore very popular among surfers; there are always a lot of young people here. In 1994, a breakwater was built here for safety, and the beach area was expanded by adding sand. There are sports grounds, many beach bars, surf schools and board rentals, and concerts, festivals and parties are often held here.
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Shopping in San Sebastian
The people of San Sebastian have a reputation in Spain for being fashionable. In the Old Town there are many shops and boutiques of both luxury and mid-price segments. Most of the brands presented are Spanish (some of them do not reach Russia), but there are also other popular European brands. Most of the shops are located on Libertad Avenue.
It is best to buy Spanish delicacies at the Mercado San Martin and Mercado de la Bretxa food markets, and interesting souvenirs at prices lower than in other shops are sold in the Akuna matata store.
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Cuisine and restaurants
Basque cuisine is considered the best in all of Spain. It is in San Sebastian that there are several restaurants that have earned Michelin stars.
There are only two restaurants in the world awarded three Michelin stars: one of them is located in Paris and the other in San Sebastian.
Restaurants in San Sebastian serve traditional Basque dishes, seafood in all possible variations and the famous pintxos. Pintxos are a local variation of Spanish tapas, small sandwiches or canapés with all sorts of fillings. They are served everywhere here - from small eateries to elegant restaurants with signature cuisine. They are usually washed down with beer, wine, in particular the traditional Basque white sparkling wine Txakoli, or apple cider (sidra). It is made here according to a special traditional recipe and sold in the same bottles as cava (Spanish sparkling wine).
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Excellent pintxos are served at the Casa Valles gastropub next to the Cathedral. The Nagusia bar on the street of the same name is a real museum of pintxos, with perhaps the largest selection in the city. Prices start from 2.90 EUR per piece. For seafood, you should go to the La Mejilonera restaurant, for traditional Basque cuisine (there is also a lot of seafood there, and the meat is excellent) - to La Cuchara de San Telmo or to La Zurri Jatetxea in the Old Town.
Arzak is the same restaurant that was awarded three Michelin stars. This is a family restaurant of new Basque cuisine, the menu is updated every six months, the signature dish is smoked white tuna with fresh figs and pine nuts. The tasting menu costs from 200 EUR per person excluding drinks.
In more affordable establishments you can have dinner for 50 EUR for two; for lunch, many of them offer a set menu costing from 10 EUR per person. You can also have a snack at pintxos bars for 10 EUR per person, excluding drinks.
Guides in San Sebastian
Entertainment and attractions of San Sebastian
Despite the fact that San Sebastian has burned almost to the ground several times throughout its history, some architectural monuments have still been preserved here. In the Old Town, called Alde Sajarra, it is worth visiting the Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro (named after the patron saint of San Sebastian), built in the Baroque style; the church of St. Vincent, a neo-Gothic building from the 19th century, and the ethnographic museum of San Telmo, whose building at the foot of Mount Urgull housed a monastery in the 16th century. Today, historical evidence of the richest Basque culture is kept here, and the walls of the museum are painted with frescoes based on the history of the region and Basque legends.
One of the most unusual museums in the city is the Sea Palace Aquarium near the port. In fact, these are two small museums in one - the first tells about the history of Basque fishing, the second about the naval history of the region. The museum has transparent tunnels, through which you can observe sharks and other marine life.
The old quarter in the city center (parte vieja) is one big attraction in itself. In its center is Constitution Square, which once served as a bullfighting arena. On the square there is an ancient library building - formerly the city hall, and nearby - the neoclassical Ayete Palace - the former residence of Franco, and the Miramar Palace, located between the beaches of Playa de la Concha and Playa de la Ondaretta - former residence of Queen Maria Cristina.
Where to go in San Sebastian
The calling card of the city, its symbol has become the La Concha embankment with its famous balustrades and lanterns. Thanks to the proximity of France, the new quarters of San Sebastian are imbued with motifs of French romantic architecture: buildings in the Art Nouveau, Belle Epoque styles and even the futuristic cubes of the Kursaal Congress Center, which was recognized as the best building in Europe in 2001.
The top of Mount Igueldo, reached by cable car, offers panoramic views of the city and coastline.
There is a beautiful pedestrian promenade along the bay - a great place for romantic walks. In its western part there is a symbolic sculpture “El Peine del Viento” - “The Comb of the Wind” by Eduardo Chillida. It symbolizes the finitude of the beach and the mainland itself, washed on three sides by the waves of the Atlantic Ocean. Essentially, these are intricately twisted rails embedded in a rocky dead end, through which rusty iron balls pass waves. The essence of the monument is to remind that nothing man-made can resist the forces of nature.
To the west of San Sebastian begins the picturesque rocky coast of the Costa Basca - the birthplace of the sparkling wine “txakoli” and the region of many ancient cities.
5 things to do in San Sebastian:
- Stop by the tourist office for free advice on your city break.
- Regardless of the weather, get your feet wet in the Bay of Biscay.
- Climb the hill to the statue of Christ.
- Visit as many tapas bars as possible in an evening.
- After warming up with cider or something stronger, go to the disco and party until the morning.
Maps of San Sebastian
Events
Life in the city is vibrant. In July, San Sebastian hosts Europe's most famous jazz festival, Jazzaldia, and in September, the international film festival. Among other cultural events, it is worth noting a theater festival, an advertising festival, a surfing film festival, an electronic music festival, and a children's “tamborrada” on St. Sebastian's Day (a competition for young drummers on the city streets). Several times a year, stages of various world and European sailing regattas take place in San Sebastian.
A beautiful seaside town and prestigious resort in northern Spain. It is famous for hosting international film and jazz festivals, rich architectural heritage and gastronomic delights.
The Town Hall (Ayuntamiento) of San Sebastian is an elegant palace with turrets in front of the Alderdi-Eder park. In 1882 it was built for a casino. When the gambling business was closed, the building served as a hospital, festival hall, and tourism center. The City Hall has occupied the palace since 1947.
Constitución Square is a square space connected by arches to neighboring streets. A gathering place for tourists, noisy city holidays and gastronomic festivals. Plaza Nueva (old name) was built in 1723. After the military fire of 1813 and a grandiose reconstruction, it bears the name Plaza de la Constitución. Here you can see the old town hall, which now houses a library.
Cathedral of the Good Shepherd
Iglesia San Ignacio is a 19th-century church dedicated to Ignatius of Loyola, a revered saint born in Guipuzcoa. The neo-Gothic cathedral in the heart of Parte Vieja was reconstructed in 1932. After the reconstruction, its bell tower became taller. The best organ in the city plays in the San Ignacio temple.
Church of San Vincente
The three-story Miramar Palace is the former family estate of Count Morian, bought by the royal family for the summer residence of Queen Maria Christina. Palacio de Miramar was reconstructed in 1893 according to the design of Selden Wornum. The palace gardens are now open to the public, and the building hosts social events. Miramar is located near La Concha beach, on Paseo de Miraconcha.
Amusement park "Monte Igueldo"
The Monte Igueldo amusement park is located on the top of a coastal hill. The history of Parque Atracciones Monte Igueldo dates back to 1911. A fashionable club was built first, and later a park was built nearby. At the top of the hill there is an ancient lighthouse museum, next to it there are roller coasters, vintage carousels, labyrinths, viewing terraces overlooking Concha Bay.
Opening hours:
Opening hours vary depending on the time of year, month, weekends and holidays. You need to check your date on the website monteigueldo.es.
The observation deck is open from 10:00, in the summer months until 20:00 (22:00).
During the summer months the funicular operates from 11:00 (10:00) to 20:00 (22:00).
Attractions are open on weekends 11:30 – 14:00 and 16:00 – 20:30. From June 19 to September 10 they are open every day.
Ticket prices:
Tickets must be purchased separately for each attraction in the park. Prices range from €1 to €5.
You can climb Mount Igueldo by cable car. General ticket for the funicular in both directions and the observation deck: adults – €3.15, children – €2.35.
Separate observation deck – €2.
“Crest of the Winds” is a large-scale sculptural composition by E. Chillida (1976). The Peine del Viento group is visible from different points in San Sebastian. It consists of three steel structures cut into the slope of Igueldo. The waves crash against the metallic bulk of the “crest” with a roar.
Anoeta Stadium
To move around the city, you can purchase a tourist card – the San Sebastian Card. There are cards: for 6 trips – €9 and for 12 trips – €16. Both cards are valid for 10 days. At tourist offices, if the card is returned in excellent condition, €0.50 will be returned. Several people can travel with one card!
Driving with the card at night is not profitable: for travel at night, 2 trips are deducted from the card.
In addition to the specified number of trips on public transport, the San Sebastian Card provides various discounts in museums, restaurants, shops, and on the funicular. Full list →
The card is sold all year round at the San Sebastian tourist office at Alameda del Boulevard, 8, Donostia. In summer they are sold in Plaza Cervantes. You can also purchase cards at some hotels: Amara Plaza, Astoria 7, Codina, San Sebastián, Hesperia Donosti, Green Nest, Avenida, Camping Igueldo, Camping Igara.
Tourist Basque Card
For travel not only in San Sebastian, but also throughout the province of Guipuzcoa, there is a tourist card, the Basque Card. There are two types available for €26 and €41. You can purchase them at the tourist office at Boulevard Zumardia, 8. If you return the card in excellent condition, you will receive a refund of €0.50.
Cards are valid for 10 days. Several people can travel around San Sebastian with one card, except on Euskotren trains.
Advantages:
- one trip on city buses San Sebastian dbus: during the day – €1.15, at night – €2.10.
- discount on Lurraldebus intercity buses in Guipuzcoa
- discount on Euskotren trains in Guipuzcoa – only for one person (! No discount on Renfe trains)
- discounts on museums, restaurants, shops, excursions in the city of San Sebastian and attractions in the surrounding area. Full list →
Monte Igueldo funicular
The funicular is the most popular transport to go from Ondarreta beach to Mount Igueldo. Funicular Monte Igueldo, opened in 1912, was the third in Spain. The original mechanisms and external design of the vintage carriages have been preserved to this day. In 3 minutes it takes tourists to the park on Mount Igueldo. The funicular leaves every quarter of an hour.
During the summer months the funicular operates from 11:00 (10:00) to 20:00 (22:00). A ticket for the funicular (return) includes a ticket to the observation deck on Mount Igueldo: adults – €3.15, children – €2.35. If you have a San Sebastian Card, an adult ticket costs €2.35.
Trains
There are two railway carriers in San Sebastian: the Spanish state-owned company Renfe - the main station of the North Station (Estación del Norte (Donostia)) and the Basque EuskoTren - the main station of Estación de Amara.
Renfe
The Renfe railway network is represented by one line C-1 Irún – Brinkola. Ticket prices depending on zones.
From San Sebastian North Station you can travel directly to Madrid and Barcelona. Trains depart 2 times a day. Travel time: to the capital of Spain – 5 hours 20 minutes, to the capital of Catalonia – 5 hours 50 minutes. Approximate ticket price: to Madrid – €60 – €75€, to Barcelona – €65 – €85.
EuskoTrena
The network of the Basque company EuskoTrena in San Sebastian is represented by three lines:
- E1: Bilbao – Donostia/San Sebastián
- E2: Lasarte-Oria – Hendaia
- E5: Amara – Altza
Tariffs for Gipuzkoa, zones 5–8:
How to get to San Sebastian from the airport?
San Sebastian Airport
San Sebastian Airport (Aeropuerto de San Sebastián, EAS) is located 20 kilometers away, near the city of Hondarribia, which is on the very border with France.
Ekialdebus buses run from the airport. It takes about an hour to get to the center of Donostia, the fare is € 2.45.
- line E20 (at night E77) connects Hondarribia airport with San Sebastian (Plaza Gipuzkoa) and passes through the municipalities of Rentería (Errenteria) and Pasajes (Pasaia).
- line E27 (at night E77) is the same as E20, but is valid on Saturdays, Sundays, public holidays and additionally passes through the city of Irún.
- Line E21 connects Hondarribia Airport with San Sebastian (Plaza Gipuzkoa) via the AP8 motorway - travel time 30 minutes.
- lines E23 or E24 (in the morning) the rest of the time - E28. The route passes through the center of San Sebastian, its districts - Riberas de Loyola, Amara and Antiguo, and then along the AP8 motorway. Bus E28 additionally calls at the city of Irún.
Bilbao Airport (BIO) – 105 km
Bilbao International Airport (Aeropuerto de Bilbao, BIO) is located 105 kilometers from San Sebastian. From here to San Sebastian (stop - Parada De Autobuses Pio XII Donostia) there is an intercity bus from the Pesa company - DO50B. The ride takes 1 hour 15 minutes, the ticket costs €17.10.
What to see in the vicinity of San Sebastian?
Santa Clara Island
Museum-park of sculptor Eduardo Chillida
City of Hondarribia
Sanctuary of Saint Ignatius of Loyola
House-Museum of Ignacio Zuloaga
Fort San Marcos
Basque Railway Museum
Basque Coast Geopark
San Sebastian in Spain is considered an elite resort city. France has Nice, Spain has San Sebastian. Although, perhaps, it would be more correct to compare it neither with Nice, but with Biarritz: both of them are located on the shores of the Bay of Biscay, at a distance of 50 km from each other.
Both the Spanish kings and the dictator Franco loved to relax in San Sebastian. And Queen Isabella II “opened” it to the sophisticated public in the mid-19th century. At that time there was a military fort here, and with it there was a fishing village.
Indeed, the location was ideal for a resort: a quiet, secluded, semicircular bay with a wide strip of sandy beaches on both sides ending in hills; in the middle of the bay, the rocky island of Santa Clara rose from the water, covering it from the open water.
Soon, Queen Maria Cristina built her residence here, and the city began to fill with aristocratic audiences. A luxurious resort town was built on the site of a military fishing settlement. In the toponymy of the city, you will often come across the name “Maria Cristina” - in memory of the queen, under whom, in fact, the city arose in its current role.
San Sebastian quickly became fashionable. And it doesn’t come out of it to this day.
San Sebastian at the beginning of the last century
San Sebastian is located on the Atlantic Ocean, in Basque Country, 14 km from the Spanish-French border, and has a double Basque-Spanish name: Donostia-San Sebastian.
There are not too many Russian tourists here - unlike the Mediterranean coast of Spain, which has long been thoroughly developed by our compatriots. I haven’t seen any package tours to San Sebastian. Yes, in general, it is hardly associated with a traditional beach resort, in which hotels with balconies overlooking the sea stretch along the coast, where the beaches are lined with sun loungers, and cafes mixed with boutiques line the embankment.
San Sebastian is a solid city, fairly homogeneous in style, mostly 5-6 floors high, which acquired its current appearance during the Art Nouveau era and subsequently adapted to the given style. Most of the buildings in the center and Old Town are built from local light yellow stone.
Typical building color
Several times I have come across the opinion that San Sebastian is supposedly similar to Paris. It resembles Paris in the same way that any European city formed in the 19th century resembles another European city of the same time (as we know, Paris was radically rebuilt in the 19th century by Baron Haussmann). In my opinion, San Sebastian is more like Madrid or. The comparison with Paris doesn't really apply here.
Quite in the spirit of Madrid, isn't it?
How to get to San Sebastian
1.San Sebastian has its own airport near the village Monribia(Hondarribia), but I didn’t come across any direct flights from Moscow. Usually a transfer in Madrid is added. The cost of such flights is around 25 thousand rubles. Flights are operated by Iberia Airlines.
2. Flights to Biarritz(50 km from San Sebastian).
3. A good option is to fly to Bilbao. Air tickets - about 17-18 thousand rubles. Bilbao has a large international airport. Distance to San Sebastian – 100 km.
You can travel from Bilbao to San Sebastian by local train. See the schedule on the Euskotren website (when choosing your arrival point, look for Donostia - San-Sebastian). Electric trains depart from Bilbao every hour and take 2 hours 40 minutes to reach Donostia. The fare is 6.30 euros.
In this case, the bus will be preferable (schedule - on alsa.es). It goes from 1 to 1.15 and costs 6.50 euros.
Pesa buses run directly from Bilbao Airport to Donostia. The schedule is on the Pesa website. The bus departs at 1.15, the ticket price is 12 euros.
4. Many people prefer to fly to Barcelona(tickets around 15 thousand). From Barcelona to San Sebastian – 400 km. They can be overcome either by rented car, or by train, or by bus.
Train schedules and fares can be found at renfe.com.
The train from Barcelona to San Sebastian takes from 5 and a half hours to 7 and a half (depending on the type). The fare ranges from 35 to 48 euros. Several trains per day.
Alsa buses (alsa.es) reach San Sebastian in 8 hours. The fare costs 38 euros.
5. Rates for trains and buses from Madrid to San Sebastian. And about the same time.
To choose the best option for getting to San Sebastian from Bilbao, Madrid or Barcelona, use the website. You can buy tickets online on the same website.
Using the price calendar, you can see which months and days have the best airfare prices, and compare prices for flights to Madrid, Barcelona and Bilbao.
Zurriola and Kursaal Beach
First, let's look at San Sebastian from its most advantageous side - let's walk along the coastline. Let's go from east to west.
The city has three sandy beaches and two hills with observation decks.
The first beach, Zurriola, is occupied by surfers. From morning to evening, on the nearby streets you can meet people with boards under their arms, hurrying to the ocean or returning from there.
However, ordinary people also swim along the edges of the bay. Since we lived a stone's throw from Zurriola, we swam here.
On the embankment lined with black tiles there are sculptures made of black stone. The embankment with sculptures matches the nearby Kursaal Congress Palace and Auditorium, a modern building of complex shape, built to host various cultural events. In particular, film festivals and jazz festivals are held here every year.
Kursaal stands on both the ocean and the river, where the Urumea River flows into the Atlantic Ocean.
The Urumea River divides the city into two parts. Along the river, the most representative buildings of San Sebastian are lined up opposite each other.
Yellow house with a dome - Hotel Maria Cristina
Opposite the Victoria Eugenia Theater
There are beautiful bridges across the river.
Maria Christina Bridge
We cross the river along the Kursaal bridge and find ourselves on the green and spacious Donostia Boulevard. We go to the tourism office and take a map of the city.
Old town and Urgul hill
Donostia Boulevard runs along the isthmus of a peninsula stretched into the ocean.
Donostia Boulevard
The peninsula ends with Urgul Hill. Between the hill and Donostia Boulevard lies the Old Town.
There are not a lot of attractions in San Sebastian. And the Old Town can be called “old” with a big stretch.
After Napoleon's invasion, little remained here: two churches and about thirty houses. Let's say this Gothic church of San Vicente is from the 16th century.
And the nearby church of Santa Maria del Coro is on the 18th.
Magnificent baroque portal
Between them, in the depths of the houses, hides the rectangular Plaza de la Constitution - the main square of the Old Town, where bullfights were once held.
And here is one of the old houses
Another attraction of San Sebastian is the San Telmo Art Museum, which is located in the building of a former monastery.
Near the San Telmo Museum, the climb up Urgull Hill begins. There are several options for climbing to the top of the hill, in particular one of them is located behind the Church of Santa Maria del Coro.
We rise to the level of church bells
Urgul Hill is covered with forest, and there are paths through the forest.
One of the paths leads to a modest cemetery for English sailors (they defended the fort from Napoleonic soldiers)
At the top there is a former English fortress with cannons. There is a small museum in the fortress. It's free, but when you walk through the museum, the employee asks what country you're from and notes it (apparently for statistics).
The museum houses an exhibition dedicated to the history of the city and the fortress. Samples of guns, military uniforms, diagrams.
Photos in the museum
Swimwear from the beginning of the last century
From the museum, a staircase leads to an observation deck, to the foot of the statue of Christ. This statue can be seen from many points in the city.
The observation deck offers an excellent view of the city.
Buon Pastor Church
You can see a curved bay with a strip of yellow beaches abutting another hill - Igueldo.
We go down to the other side of the hill and find ourselves near the local Aquarium and Maritime Museum. A little further is the port.
Beaches of San Sebastian La Concha and Ondorreta
Having passed the port, we come to the most remarkable building of San Sebastian, which has become its calling card - the City Hall. In the past it housed a casino. (There is still a casino in San Sebastian, but it is located in a different location).
City Hall, or Ayuntamiento
There is a nice park in front of the City Hall. In general, this part of the city is the most pleasant. The wide and spacious La Concha (“Shell”) beach begins here, and a promenade stretches along the beach from the city hall.
Statue of Jesus between the towers of City Hall. People are visible on the observation deck
La Concha Beach
Clock on the embankment
This elegant pavilion housed the royal baths.
Hotels line the left side.
Concha Beach rests on a rocky outcrop. A tunnel has been cut into the rock.
Above this promontory is Miramar Castle, the former royal residence of Queen Maria Cristina, built in 1893 in the English style.
Now the castle is open to the public. Inside, everything is quite simple, no frills. The residence is “decorated” with modern installations.
Flowerbeds in front of the castle
Behind the rocky outcrop begins Ondarreta Beach.
Ondarreta Beach
And opposite it lies a block of private villas.
Ondarreta beach is 600 meters long and ends on the Igueldo hill.
You can climb the hill by cable car (for 1.75 euros). However, it won’t take long to get there on your own. We went up by cable car and walked back down.
Igeldo is higher than Urgul Hill. The statue of Christ appears below.
Between the Igueldo and Urgul hills in the center of the bay, the small island of St. Clara, popularly nicknamed “Turtle,” sticks out of the water. They say there is also a small beach on it.
At the top of Igueldo there is a cafe and amusement park. They even built a river along which you can float in a boat, and all this on the edge of an abyss.
How do you like a ride on such a train? I think the kids will be very impressed.
A walk along the ocean from one end of the city to the other can take about two hours.
City center. Cathedral of Buon Pastor
The beaches and promenade of San Sebastian are by far the most attractive part of the city. However, it is also pleasant to walk inside the city districts.
The city, as I already mentioned, was built in the Art Nouveau style. This style is characterized by smooth curved lines, floral patterns, and fluidity. Wandering around San Sebastian, you will come across expressive details at every step. Looking at them is a pleasure!
There are many parks, fountains, squares.
Gipuzkoa Plaza - park district
The dominant feature of this part of the city (the area is called Amara) is the Cathedral of the Good Pastor - Buon Pastor. The cathedral was built in the neo-Gothic style in 1897, all under the same Queen Maria Cristina. They say that the architect Echave made his project with an eye on the Cologne Cathedral.
Sunlight, penetrating into the cathedral through stained glass windows, colors the interior of the church.
City life is in full swing around the cathedral; it can be said to be the heart of the city.
From the Cathedral of Buon Pastor, the wide Loyola Calea, filled with shops, begins.
Behind the cathedral there is a cultural center building. And behind it stretches a pedestrian street with restaurants. And here we smoothly move on to the next section.
Food and drinks. Pinchos, tapas, pacharan
The basis of local catering is pintxos and tapas. The line between them is fragile, but it exists.
Tapas is a snack for one tooth: a tartlet, a rosette with olives, nuts. Often their cost is included in the price of the ordered drink. So, at the bar, when ordering a glass of beer, they gave me a plate with pieces of chopped jamon. “Tapas” is translated as “lids” - historically, a glass of wine was covered like a lid with a small sandwich.
Tapas at the bar
If tapas is a pan-Spanish phenomenon, then pintxos were invented in San Sebastian. "Pintxos" means "skewers" or "pins" in Basque. Like, these are pieces of food strung on a skewer. But often mini-portions of regular dishes are also classified as pintxos. So, trying to figure out the menu, I saw the same names in both the main dishes section and the pintxos section. Only the main course cost about 12 euros, and pintxos with the same name - about 3. So there is a great opportunity not to take a “pig in a poke”, but to try a mini-portion of this “cat”.
The cost of pintxos is 2-3 euros. For a full meal, 3-4 pieces are enough. So, on the first evening I ordered 4 pintxos. They brought me a piece of stewed beef, two large mussels in batter, some other meat and a sandwich with goose liver. The foie gras was the most tender, and subsequently I always took such pintxos on occasion. True, in the first cafe it turned out to be the most delicious.
As in all of Spain, the menu of the day is in use here - “ menu del dia". It includes a first and second course (choice from 3-5 items), wine, dessert and sometimes coffee. It turns out profitable. This menu of the day costs 9-15 euros.
Well, and, of course, in San Sebastian you need to eat fish and seafood (“Pescados y mariscos”). There are many restaurants with such signs in the port area, next to the maritime museum and the Aquarium. Some have menus in Russian.
Winemaking in the Basque Country has a long tradition, so I won’t give any special recommendations. I think any of the local wines will not cause disappointment. I will only say about such local drinks as chakoli and pacharan.
Txacoli (“txacoli”) is a young, slightly carbonated wine of a greenish hue, very pleasant to the taste. Pacharan (“patxaran”) is a symbiosis of anise tincture with sloe liqueur. I thought it was too sweet, but many people like pacharan.
As throughout Spain, siesta is sacredly observed in the Basque Country. Try not to delay lunch - restaurants usually close at 15:00.
I have been to San Sebastian three times - twice in August and once during the New Year holidays. In summer, both times the ocean was warm and calm (unlike Portugal and). I was surprised that there are also quite a lot of people here in winter. Vacationers strolled along the embankment, looked into shops, and sat in cafes. Although, of course, the evening January San Sebastian looked rather sad, like any resort town in the off-season.
But in the summer it’s nice here. So, if you want to visit the ocean, San Sebastian is not a bad option at all. No wonder the Spanish kings loved him so much.
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