- October 26, 2017
The thirst for travel, like an appetite, always comes during a meal, and in our case, during the journey itself. No matter how it sounds, even if it’s a tautology, it’s entirely about Seryozha and me.
It all started with the fact that we went on a long-planned honeymoon to Georgia, having previously thought about the desired and dreamy photo shoot in a white dress and suit against the backdrop of mountain landscapes. By the way, our gorgeous photographs are already ready, you can look at them and read the background - in.
Literally on the third day of our stay in Georgia, something came into our heads not to go home yet, but to continue our journey in the Azerbaijani capital, the city of Baku. The countries are neighbors, so without thinking for a long time, we bought tickets from Tbilisi to Baku. Just an hour and a half and we are in the richest and most luxurious city in the Caucasus.
The architecture of Baku amazes you from the moment you arrive at Heydar Aliyev Airport, which, although small in size, still ranks first for several years in a row as the most comfortable airport in the world. In the city itself, regardless of whether it is the center or the outskirts, there are good and wide roads, many expensive cars and fashion boutiques and restored building facades.
Maiden's Tower 
Fountain in the Philharmonic Garden
As you begin to explore the city, remember that Azerbaijanis are very sociable and approachable; they don’t mind and even love being photographed. Just please, don’t be like the Indians or the Chinese - don’t take pictures of people on the sly and don’t stoop to stupid selfies, especially without permission.
Baku residents playing backgammon
Where is the best place to stay in Baku:
- best hostel in Baku: Freedom Hostel;
- Baku hotels through the Edem-v-gosti.ru service;
- best budget hotel: Akvilon Hotel;
- Best Mid-Range Hotel: Seven Rooms Boutique Hotel;
- Best Luxury Hotel: Four Seasons Hotel.
Do you want to choose another hotel in Baku? Click on the link to see the entire list
Also check the listing of Baku apartments on Airbnb. Click here to get €34 off your first Airbnb booking.
It’s impossible to get bored in Baku, but there is a certain, my personal hit parade of things that definitely need to be done in the capital of Azerbaijan. I hope you appreciate it ;)
1. Drink a million liters of tea
In any cafe, under any circumstances and in general - there is no time to explain - drink tea! Good Azerbaijani loose leaf tea is called “black gold” in the country. By the way, you can buy a good one at. Azerbaijanis brew tea in teapots with a capacity of at least 500 ml and pour it into curved crystal glasses called armuds. Everything is quite prosaic, except for the special presentation. Be sure to order a couple of small bowls with different jams for tea: from white cherries to figs. They also serve interesting pastries as a snack for tea, such as shekerbura, baklava or mutaki. All of these products are filled with walnuts, following the principle “the rich you are, the happier you are.” While drinking tea, take your time and don’t forget to thank life for making it so wonderful for you!
It is best to drink tea with a view of the sea and the city, for example, in the teahouse Çay Bağı 145, which is located next to the Maiden Tower.
Sea view from the teahouse 
In the photo there is a shekerbura in a plate
2. Meet the locals
That point that is simply impossible not to implement in Baku. As I already wrote above, Azerbaijanis are very sociable. Only after arriving in the capital, a woman (!) wrote to me on Facebook, offering to show us Baku for free at any time of the day. Either out of boredom, or out of pride for one’s native country, or simply to communicate and meet new people. I love this! No need to look for a guide in Baku - he will find you himself! I’m already silent about our housemate, but we settled right in the heart of the old city of Icheri Sheher - he, as the owner of a travel agency, did not let us pass: he offered us wine, and tea, and to talk: D
By the way, cats in Baku are also local residents, if you are “cat-loving” like us, don’t pass by - cuddle the fluffy beauties. Well, no one forbids taking a trillion photos.
Baku seals 
3. Love carpets
I read somewhere that if you didn’t fall in love with Azerbaijani carpets and didn’t want to buy one for your home, consider that you haven’t been to Azerbaijan! A joke in which everything is true. I had to cry for a long time over one brand new carpet from a souvenir shop, but Seryozha was adamant and kept asking where we would lay it. They never brought the carpet home. Don't repeat our mistakes. The fashion for everything authentic is returning, and your brand new renovation definitely needs a small rug by the sofa.
One of these little rugs would do just fine.
In another souvenir shop I was even offered to feel the energy of old antique and very expensive carpets by simply putting my hands between them. But apart from awkwardness and the strange smell of stale carpets, of course, I didn’t feel anything.
Azerbaijani carpets
4. Find locations from the movie “The Diamond Arm”
They have even created quests for tourists in Baku, having previously marked the locations from the film on the map. This is such an entertaining and very addictive program. It was in Baku that foreign scenes from “The Diamond Arm” were filmed. If you go to the right, you will see tourists on Kichik Gala Street, falling on their butts and shouting “Damn it!”, if you go to the left, on Sabir Street (by the way, right under our balcony) you will hear “Tsigel-Tsigel Aylulyu”: D And further on in that spirit.
The same pharmacy
5. Try Azerbaijani pilaf
Azerbaijani pilaf in its variations is prepared with lamb and with the addition of dried fruits, nuts and chestnuts. Saffron and turmeric are used as aromatic spices. Ideally, you can only get to the most delicious pilaf when visiting. As one local resident told me, Azerbaijanis go to restaurants exclusively to eat shashlik (kebab), and they cook the rest at home. Set yourself up on a quest to find the best national pilaf in Baku. Most of the national cuisine restaurants are located within Icheri Sheher, but I was recommended one outside the city - with a special design, huge territory, live music, called Gala Bazaar (here restaurant page on Facebook).
6. See the famous Flame Towers
The calling card of evening Baku is the Flame Towers. The towers and their light animation are visible from almost every point of the old city and throughout the entire Neftchinikov Avenue and Primorsky Boulevard of Baku. The buildings resemble three flames and are illuminated by animations of fire or water that fill the towers. After a couple of minutes, the picture changes and now a man with the flag of Azerbaijan walks around each tower in a circle. The spectacle is worth all the efforts to photograph it at night with shutter speed.
Flame Towers in all its glory 
7. Go to the local market
Visiting local markets is a must for a good trip, in my humble opinion. I absolutely do not miss this tourist attraction anywhere. For new experiences, go to Yashyl Bazaar, where you can buy vitamin bombs and goodies to take home for your family and friends. Recently there was a whole article with the assortment. Don't forget to visit the souvenir market in the center of Icheri Sheher.
Souvenir shops in the Old Town
8. Visit the Heydar Aliyev Center
This masterpiece of architecture, which was designed by the famous architect Zaha Hadid, once won first place in the ranking of the most beautiful buildings in the world back in 2014 and was named after the third President of Azerbaijan, Heydar Aliyev. The former ruler is a key figure in Azerbaijani history. You can learn about the historical details of the country inside the building, which houses a museum and numerous exhibitions: from folk musical instruments and clothing to Aliyev’s personal collection of cars.
Space! 
9. Ride in an eggplant taxi
These are the kind of cars that carry the British in the capital of Great Britain, only the cabs are black. And in Baku, cabs are eggplant-colored. These photogenic cars are not the first to catch the click of tourist camera shutters.
What a dude! 
10. Swim in the Caspian Sea
If you are going to Baku for a short time, then this may be a ready-made program for at least the weekend. Therefore, I wish you easy travels and pleasant memories!
If you want to add to the list, don’t be afraid to write your options in the comments;) In the meantime, I’ll show you our final video from Azerbaijan:
“İçəri şəhər - Interiorcity in common people - Fortress, or “old” city - ancient residential area and historical and architectural reserve in capital of Azerbaijan, in the city of Baku”...
Wikipedia
It was not by chance that we started our story about the sights of Baku from Icheri Sheher. The first recommendation for guests of the capital of Azerbaijan is to stay at one of the hotels located within the walls of the Old City. The fortress walls of Icheri Sheher also hide hostels - Baku Old City Hostel (4,116 rubles / room for 5 nights): and budget private hotels - Azeri Hotel (12,576 rubles / room for 5 nights) and Boyuk Gala Hotel (13,033 rubles ./ room for 5 nights). So hotels with four stars are Museum Inn Boutique Hotel (RUB 28,582/room for 5 nights) and Shah Palace Hotel (RUB 29,725/room for 5 nights). Only one five-star hotel is hidden by the fortress walls - Atropat Hotel (RUB 32,012/room for 5 nights).
The city of Baku currently can offer its guests more than one hundred hotels of various categories. More detailed descriptions, locations and reviews... can be found on Booking.com
But let's return to the main topic of our story - the sights of Baku. To get to know Icheri Sheher in more detail, click on the button below -
The first day
For those who are not too tired on the road and are ready to get acquainted with the city, having barely thrown off their things and washed off the dust of the roads, we recommend drinking Azerbaijani tea from a samovar, with jam, in a teahouse near the Maiden Tower and trying to catch the double-decker excursion bus “City Sightseeing Baku” . Stop number 5 can be seen by going down from the tower to the avenue, 30 meters on the right hand. If your hotel is located closer to the Palace of the Shirvanshahs and the Icheri Sheher metro station, your stop is number 7, which is ten meters from the entrance to the metro, in a straight line. There are fifteen main stops on the route.
No. 1- Azadlig Square (government house)
No. 2 - Heydar Aliyev Center
No. 3 - Museum of Contemporary Art
No. 4 - Fountain Square
No. 5- Maiden Tower
No. 6 - Four Seasons Hotel
No. 7- Philharmonic Park (Icheri Sheher metro station)
No. 8 - "Flame Towers"
No. 9- Nagorny Park,
No. 10 - Flag Square
No. 11- Ferris wheel on the boulevard.
No. 12 - Azneft Square, Mugam Center, New Carpet Museum
No. 13- Puppet theater
No. 14- Museum Center
No. 15- Fountain “7 Beauties” on Nizami Boulevard.
In fact, there are more red “City Sightseeing Baku” signs in the city center and the numbers on them are scattered in an order incomprehensible to the common man, but this should not worry you. Because having received the coveted ticket, in exchange for 20 manats (20 euros), you receive twenty-four hours of travel on any double-decker City Sightseeing Baku bus, with boarding and disembarking at any of the stops on the excursion route. Don’t pay attention to the schedule, no one follows it anyway. Just find some shade and wait.
Commentaries of the route are broadcast in Azerbaijani, French, English, German, Farsi, Russian and Japanese. All seats are equipped with a “sound control panel” and “disposable” headphones are provided.
A bus excursion will not take up much of your energy, but will give you the opportunity to immediately get to know the city and outline walking routes for yourself.
We recommend finishing the tour to have dinner at stop No. 4 - Fountain Square. Every second person (every first foreigner) will tell you how to get to the best Azerbaijani restaurant in Baku (in terms of price/quality ratio) “Feyruza”, which is on the square. By the way, in Baku, 98% of Azerbaijanis (Baku residents) speak Russian.
In Icheri Shekher, we recommend drinking tea and eating... only if you have a lot of extra manats and don’t plan to buy souvenirs at all. Prices in restaurants in the Old Town... frankly speaking, are “for tourists”, and the price/quality ratio is not great.
On the same Fountain Square, a few meters from the Feyruza restaurant, you can find such familiar establishments as McDonald’s, Rostix, IlPatio... But there they will not serve you Azerbaijani pilaf or Piti.
Second day
So, we left behind the day of arrival, accommodation and familiarization. Now we need to decide whether we will take it by storm or leave it for “short runs” after walking around the outer city. If we choose the second, then the excursion route of the second day in Baku will go to the Alley of Martyrs - Alley of Honorable Burials and back to the Nagorny Park and Primorsky Boulevard.
We will start our today’s route from the Governor’s Park (on the city map it is marked as Philharmoni Park (apparently in honor of the Muslim Magomayev (senior) Philharmonic located there)
From the Governor's Park, turn your face towards the Caspian Sea and follow straight (400 m) to Azneft Square. At the roundabout, turn right and continue driving until you see this picture in front of you
The glass building behind the sculpture is the lower station of the funicular. Absolutely free of charge, that is, a comfortable trailer will take you to the top of Nagorny Park for nothing. From where we will continue our route.
To find out what we saw in the Upland part of the city, click on the button below
So, paying tribute to the victims “Black January” and those who died in the Karabakh War, on the Alley of Martyrs, walking along the shady paths of the Alley of Honorary Burials, and wandering through the Nagorny Park, we go down the granite stairs to the funicular station.
To continue our excursion, we need to go to the other side of Neftchinikov Avenue, to the “Museum of Azerbaijani Carpet and Folk Applied Arts named after Latif Kerimov.”
“The museum’s collection includes more than 10,000 items, including ceramics, metal and jewelry made of bronze, metal products of the 14th century, carpets and carpet products of the 17th-20th centuries, gold and silver jewelry, national clothing and embroidery, as well as objects applied art of the modern period"
Wikipedia
If you are interested in the museum, go have a look, and we will hurry to a place that is more attractive for guests of Baku.
Standing with your back to the museum building, you will see the canals of “Little Venice”, with high bridges, islands, tunnels and trees leaning towards the water. Fancy gondolas slowly cut through the waters of the canals
It was an excursion into the distant seventies, when the role of the gondolier was played by young Muslim Magomayev. Now in little Venice everything has changed a lot. Gondoliers don’t sing songs, the dark intimacy of the alleys has disappeared, instead there are two chic restaurants, and gondolas glide along the canals driven by ordinary boat engines... But still, a very attractive place, especially for guests of Baku. The pleasure of riding a gondola will cost you 3 manats.
On this beautiful note we end our second day of excursion around Baku. Near the Little Venice pier there is an underground passage that will take you to the Governor's Garden and the Icheri Sheher Gate. And if you decide to continue exploring the night Primorsky Boulevard, click the button below...
Daythird
Here, gentlemen and comrades, our excursion route will split. For those who are interested in the cultural objects of the capital of Azerbaijan, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the museums and theaters of the city; their number and variety will satisfy even the most sophisticated whim. Here are just a few of them:
“Azerbaijan State Academic Opera and Ballet Theater” Founded in 1920. The theater’s repertoire consists of both world operas and ballets, as well as works by national authors. Address: st. May 28 Landmark: NIZAMI Cinema Metro: Sahil
Museum Center of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of the Republic of Azerbaijan. Built in 1960 according to the design of the Azerbaijani architect Hasan Majidov. Has four floors. On the first floor there is a foyer and a museum kiosk; on the second - the assembly hall and the Azerbaijan State Museum of Carpet and Folk Applied Arts; on the third - the Museum of Azerbaijan Independence and the Azerbaijan State Theater Museum named after J. Jabbarli; on the fourth - the Round Hall, the Art Gallery and the virtual branch of the Russian Museum. Address: Neftchilyar Ave., 123/a
Museum of Azerbaijani Literature named after Nizami Ganjavi.
founded in Baku in 1939. Located near Fountain Square and the entrance to Icheri Sheher. Today, this museum is one of the largest and richest treasuries of Azerbaijani spiritual culture. The pride of the museum is the manuscript of Nizami Ganjavi’s poem “Iskandar-name”, written in 1418. (a miniature from this manuscript, belonging to the Shiraz school, was the oldest illustration of Nizami’s poems in the collections of the USSR), a copy of the rewritten manuscript of Fuzuli “Bankyu-Bade” (1569), “Oriental poem on the death of Pushkin” by Mirza Fatali Akhundov
The Green Theater in Baku is located on the territory of the Nagorny Park. This is a summer open-air concert venue. The theater seats up to 2,500 spectators. It was built in the mid-60s. In 2008, the Green Theater was completely reconstructed and now concerts of both Azerbaijani artists and foreign pop stars are held here.
National Academic Drama Theatre. On March 10, 1873, M.F. Akhundov’s comedy “The Vizier of Lankaran Khan” was staged in Baku under the direction of Hasan bey Zerdabi. It was then that the foundations of the Academic National Drama Theater were laid. The theater first performed in the form of separate troupes, and since 1919 it was united with the status of the State Theater, which it still is.
And I would like to dwell in more detail on two of the most famous cultural sites in Baku: the Museum of History of Azerbaijan in the house-museum of oil magnate Haji Zeynalabdin Tagiyev and the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center.
The Museum of the History of Azerbaijan has been operating in the mansion of the famous oil industrialist and philanthropist G.Z. Tagiyev since 1920. The total number of museum valuables exceeds 300,000 items. 20,000 of them are on display, the rest is stored in scientific depositories - numismatic (over 150,000), archaeological (93,000), ethnography (9,000), weapons (2,300), scientific archive (12,000), precious metals fund (15,000) ), negatives (10,000), rare book fund (4570). The museum publishes a collection of articles “Materials on the history of Azerbaijan”
It is a complex structure that includes a congress center, a museum and exhibition halls. Bears the name of the 3rd President of Azerbaijan Heydar Aliyev. The center was designed in 2007 by architect Zaha Hadid. The Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center is considered one of the symbols of modern Baku. On the ground floor of the cultural center there is an exhibition entitled “Masterpieces of Azerbaijan”. Unique exhibits are displayed here, reflecting the history of the country and its cultural heritage. On the second floor, within the framework of the “Mini-Azerbaijan” project, models of 45 historical and architectural buildings of Azerbaijan, located both in Baku and in other regions of Azerbaijan, are exhibited.
And, of course, the Heydar Aliyev Museum. When creating the museum, special attention was paid to reflecting various periods of the history of Azerbaijan, the life and work of Heydar Aliyev.
For those who are more attracted by the warm waters of the Caspian Sea, with its sandy beaches, “kebabs with cognac” and the hot Azerbaijani sun, we offer you to get acquainted in more detail with local and not quite beaches. Here you can choose from “semi-wild” beaches, shared by local residents and conventionally equipped with “amenities”, and quite comfortable beaches of Mardakan and Zagulba, and a VIP beach in resort and entertainment center.
Day four
Today we have planned a country walk to the village of Surakhany. Another mystery from the depths of centuries. Who built this temple and why? Who were the dark-skinned, but fair-haired and blue-eyed people who worshiped fire, simple pagans or followers of Zoroaster? What happened within the walls of the mysterious temple when future oil magnates were looking for and pumping black gold around it? What traces left by fire worshipers can be found in Azerbaijan to this day? In order to find answers to all these questions, we go to the temple of fire worshipers “Ateshgah”.
The first option for the upcoming trip: take bus No. 184 from the Koroglu metro station and go for 30-40 minutes to the final railway station Sarukhan. Or from the “Kara Karaev” metro station, there are two minibuses from it - No. 191 and No. 113. The fare will cost you less than a manat (50 qepiks). All you have to do is find a Russian-speaking local resident and the job is done.
The second option is to call “eggplant”. A trip in comfort will cost you 40 manats (two ways)
Having received answers to our questions... or not, and having returned to the walls of Icheri Shekher, which had already become dear, we decided not to waste precious time on rest, but to quickly wash away the dust of roads and antiquities, have a snack on Fountain Square and take a walk around the Trade Nizami store...
If you exit through the double gates of Icheri Shekher and cross the parking lot on the right (by the way, pay attention to the square on the left and the sculpture Monument to Mirza Sabir standing in its center), you will find yourself on Fountain Square. It is easy to determine that you are already there by the tiles that will be under your feet - the entire pedestrian area is paved with dark stone with white stripes.
Look to your right and admire the amazing architecture of the Nizami Poetry Museum. Please note, it seems that this is a Soviet building, as evidenced by the sculptures on the facade, but how the oriental style is maintained, the national flavor is preserved, despite the presence of workers and collective farmers in the company of poets and writers. And the secret is simple. The building was built in 1860 as a caravanserai, and later a hotel was located here. In the 30s of the twentieth century, the building was given over to the Museum of Poetry, named after the Azerbaijani poet Nizami Ganjavi, and sculptures were installed. Opposite the museum there is a wide staircase-square, and Nizami himself towering above it. A very interesting place in terms of architectural and landscape design.
Walking around the museum you will see a very interesting, but much more prosaic building of the KFC cafe chain. Inside you will find the most ordinary hamburgers, but outside... Look closely at the facade, and you will see that the building is completely entwined with flowers and ivy that grow right from the walls! If you're lucky, you'll even see all this splendor pouring from the bottom up.
Moving forward, we will see the very fountains after which the square is named. Yes, their construction has definitely been elevated to the status of art in Baku. It seems that every designer has set out to create the most unusual fountain. To hell with traditional peeing boys. How do you like geysers bursting out of the ground or a table with huge balls right in the middle of the square, without any sides or fences along which water flows? It is convenient not only for people to drink from such a fountain, but also for dogs; some even prefer to take a shower.
On this street you will find a lot of cafes and restaurants, both national and European. There is even a McDonald's here, traditionally filled with noisy teenagers. After passing McDonald's, look around, somewhere nearby there is a good bookstore with a very friendly elderly salesman. Near the entrance to the store there is a stack of books frozen in stone; it is a false landmark to miss. From the bookstore you can walk up the alley, past souvenir shops, the assortment of which differs from the shops of Icheri Shekher, and the prices are pleasantly surprising. Cups, mugs, plates with the image of the Maiden Tower, assorted magnets, rosaries, scarves, decorated quotes from the Koran, silver jewelry and miniature national instruments - you can choose souvenirs to suit every taste. And if you come here a second time, the seller will definitely remember you and give you a discount if you don’t bargain yourself. It's best to come here before leaving, when you clearly understand how much money you have in stock and how much space is left in your suitcases - the temptation to buy everything is too great.
Having reached the end of the alley, we will come out to the building of the old Department Store, which has now turned into the largest jewelry store in the city. Alas, if you were going to bring local jewelry from Azerbaijan, you are unlikely to find anything. Traders focus on the demand of Baku residents, and European style is in fashion here, so you will find the same things as in Russia. Maybe a little cheaper.
On the way back, stop by the music kiosk and pick up a CD of folk music. Or you can buy a video about Baku so that you can remember your pleasant trip to the Land of Fire at home.
Let's go back a little and go straight to Nizami Shopping Street. It’s better to walk here when it gets dark; you will see huge chandeliers stretched between the houses, illuminating the pavements. However, there is enough light here from the windows of fashionable stores of all the world's most famous brands. To be honest, it doesn’t really look like locals come here to shop; rather, they walk here to look at others and show off themselves. Prices in stores are steep, and there are few visitors inside. But in numerous cafes it is difficult to find empty seats. What is noteworthy is that most of the cafes here have a European assortment; young people prefer milkshakes and frappes. When you see guys calmly walking arm in arm for the first time, you think it’s just an illusion. When you come across the same couple a second time, you begin to suspect something is wrong. Following the third couple with your eyes, you notice the sign “Gay Club”. No one is encrypted, no one is afraid, no one hides these establishments like in Russia. Gentlemen, we are with you in Europe.
At the end of May 2018, a group of nine tourists (8 women and one man) challenged themselves: could they drive around three countries and one republic without going crazy from the impressions? In 17 days they visited Dagestan, Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan. This story is about the Republic of Azerbaijan.
More than 9 million people live in Azerbaijan. It is a secular state, the majority of whose residents profess Islam. Today, thousands of tourists flock there to see the place where the East meets the West. In addition, Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, is included in the list of the most beautiful cities in the world.
Baku is called the city of lights and the city of winds. I called it the white city. Look how white everything is around - like a stone desert.
We spent three days in Azerbaijan at the end of May. We looked for a booked hostel on Babek Avenue, but never found it. But they found a prince on a white horse, a friend and son-in-law. But let's not get too far ahead of ourselves - let's talk about everything in order.
Suitcase, money, passport, key. What do these words have in common? That's right, travel! The journey begins with preparation.
We prepared for the trip for two months: we gathered a group, plotted routes, studied the sights - no one from our company had been to Azerbaijan before.
A group of tourists leaves Nizhny Novgorod. Baku is 2213 km away or approximately 5 days, 5 hours and 5 minutes.
Making a plan
When going on a long road trip, it is important to plan everything down to the smallest detail. How to get there, where to sleep, what to eat, what to take, where to go? We tried to answer these and other questions in advance.
- How to get there? We studied maps and reviews from other travelers to plan our route. For example, they will not be allowed into Azerbaijan after Armenia. Because there is a conflict between countries. Would we have known about this if we had not read a good hundred reviews a couple of months before the trip? Is not a fact! Read reviews from previous travelers in advance.
- How much should I take? We decided to collect 20 thousand rubles per person - this is money for gasoline, overnight accommodation, a common table and unforeseen expenses. It turned out to be 180,000. We divided the amount by four, since this is the budget of 4 countries, and in the end 45,000 went to Azerbaijan. This amount was quite enough for our group: we didn’t indulge in luxury, but we didn’t deprive ourselves of excursions and wine.
- Where to sleep? We booked a hostel in advance, but were unable to get there. We'll talk more about this later. However, our case is rather an exception, so we recommend that everyone else book beds in advance. Moreover, the money was returned to us.
- What is? We decided that we cook on our own twice a day and visit a cafe once - so we try local food, and do not go bankrupt in the process. Who is responsible for cooking and who is responsible for washing dishes was also discussed in advance.
- What to take? Our vacation was more sports than beach or entertainment. And the things in the suitcase were selected based on this remark: sneakers, shorts, comfortable clothes.
- Where to go? We looked at the sights of Baku in advance and decided that for our first trip it would be enough for us to see the city center - Baku is included in the list of the ten most beautiful cities in the world - the old city and the Caspian Sea. We don’t spend money on a guide - we Google and read.
Light snack at a gas station on the way to Azerbaijan. Still on the Russian side.
Note: The Republic of Azerbaijan is a Muslim country. They look bad at exposed ankles and cleavage. If you want to avoid sidelong glances, choose your wardrobe more carefully.
We were in Azerbaijan at the end of May. The thermometer had not yet reached its maximum height, and we were not hot in knee-length trousers and sundresses. However, in the city center there are many locals who, for the sake of world fashion, allow themselves to wear shorts and other revealing looks.
Useful applications
Today, the Internet is replete with an abundance of applications for travelers: from Google maps to virtual guides. We have collected the top 10 most useful in our opinion:
- Diary. You can write everything down here so you don’t forget anything.
- Calculator (the one on your mobile phone will do). Will help you create a travel budget.
- Translator . When translation difficulties arise.
- Calculation of fuel consumption. When traveling on your own, it is very important to know how much money you will spend on gasoline. We know in advance how much a plane or train ticket costs. You can also calculate the cost of a car ticket.
- Google Maps . Moreover, our experience shows that it is better to download them rather than use them online. Different situations may arise on the road; it is better if you have a good compass up your sleeve.
- Currency Converter . Convert manats to rubles, rubles to manats, dollars to rubles, manats to dollars - in order not to get confused with all this, you need a currency converter.
- - on aggregators you can find accommodation to suit your budget and taste.
- Audio tour. The guide in your pocket automatically begins to talk about objects as you approach them.
- audio guides and excursion routes have also been selected, and the service also connects strangers for joint trips so that you can save money.
- Couchsurfing - people invite you to stay with them for free.
Azerbaijanis use the Latin alphabet, but in Soviet times they wrote in Cyrillic.
In addition to services, you can check the websites of local museums, cinemas, and shops in advance to understand the average cost of services in the country, book tickets and, based on reviews, figure out in advance whether it’s worth going there.
- State Museum of Musical Culture of Azerbaijan
How to prepare a car for travel?
When traveling on your own, it is very important to check your motor and wheels in advance. This will be done best in special diagnostic centers. We would not advise relying on chance. On the way to Azerbaijan you will encounter mountain roads, serpentines and horsemen. Do you want to take risks?
In general, when talking about preparing a car for a trip, we would divide it into three points.
- Checking the "health" of the car.
- Checking documents: passport, driver's license, property rights - everything should be at hand. You should also make sure that you have paid your car tax and have no outstanding fines. Otherwise, the border may not be opened for you.
- First aid kit. There should always be a first aid kit in the car - this is a priori, a fact!
We had two Nissan cars and three drivers for nine of us. When traveling around the city, a personal car is more of a plus than a minus. But it’s more convenient to get to the resort by plane or with fewer passengers. We drove quite tightly. But, as they say, in cramped conditions, don’t be offended. To warm up, we made green parking lots.
Green parking lot in an almost lavender field.
Salam Azerbaijan [Hello, Azerbaijan]!
Border crossing
Azerbaijan has five land borders: with Russia, Armenia, Turkey, Georgia, Iran and Armenia. The border between Armenia and Azerbaijan is closed - there is a conflict.
Of the three borders that we crossed during our trip, Azerbaijani customs officers are the fiercest. At first they asked us for a long time whether we were really Russians - each of the nine, as if they couldn’t tell from their faces! Then they clarified whether we maintained relations with Armenia, why we were going to Baku, etc.
At the end of customs control, they asked to empty the entire trunk! And we were driving from the Izberbash Brandy Factory and were already quite loaded. It was very difficult for us to empty the trunk. Only the compliment made by the customs officer somehow brightened up the impression of the border.
Long, difficult, hard! We didn't like the border!
Watching the sunrise in the car
Search for a hostel, or sightseeing auto tour of Baku
As soon as we entered Azerbaijan, the adventure began. The Internet there is generally expensive, and in roaming mode it’s a direct path to ruin. Our money in our mobile account was immediately eaten up by online Google maps. In a foreign country we were left without maps and without the Internet. We got to Baku blindly.
Note: Internet in Azerbaijan is expensive, but almost every establishment has free Wi-Fi.
On the website where we booked a hostel from home, it was said that Babek Avenue is located a few kilometers from the city center. We drove into the center and started looking for Babek on the signs. Signs indicated to go straight. We went straight - we arrived in the wrong place. We went back - again we arrived in the wrong place. As a result, we drove around half of Baku - there is no Babek Avenue!
Azerbaijani streets. Center
We stopped at the store. Those who smoke smoked, calmed down and began asking passers-by: “Excuse me, how can we get to Babek?” It turned out that passersby did not understand Russian. Someone was smoking nervously, someone was reading indifferently (this is the author), and someone was looking out for passers-by who could help us. He came to the rescue.
- Excuse me, you are looking at me like that, do you want to know something?
- Yes. But we will speak Russian.
- No problem.
We explained the situation. Nice young man... Remember that there were eight of us women? And the six older ones began vying with each other to talk about this to the two younger ones, so that the latter would come out and show themselves. But we didn’t want to get out of the car. Fortunately, the young man did not refuse to help us. But the fact that he found a wife in this way is a completely different story.
The streets, the houses - everything is beautiful.
There is a very aggressive movement in Azerbaijan. Cars fly like lightning flashes. That is why, just starting to follow our new acquaintance, the third car quickly fell behind the first two. At one of the turns, other cars simply didn’t let us through, and when they did, our trail disappeared.
We returned to the store parking lot to find a new guide. This time we found him quickly - he was a middle-aged Azerbaijani who, in fact, was in a hurry to get to work, but could not refuse us. He rode ahead, cutting across the road, and we tried our best to keep up with him. But Babek is still gone.
It turned out that it was quite difficult for Azerbaijanis to find our address. The driver-guide stopped every few kilometers to clarify the route. We drove for another half hour through traffic jams and thorns and were already somewhere very close when an SMS arrived on the phone from an unfamiliar number:
"Go to the Botanical Garden"
We signaled to our guide to stop. He got out of the car, listened to us, sighed heavily, but didn’t give up halfway. He just said the legendary phrase:
Oleg, I noticed that you are driving a little slowly.
From the Botanical Garden
When we got to the Botanical Garden, part of our group was there, making an order for lunch at a cafe on the territory of the Botanical Garden. We thanked the man who drove us around the city for free, and said goodbye to him, giving him a box of chocolates WITH LIQUOR!
It was later that we learned that most of the Azerbaijanis obediently follow the Koran and do not drink wine. That is, sweets with liqueur are generally not a suitable option for thanking someone.
Note: Most Azerbaijanis do not drink, do not eat pork, and pray five times a day.
While half of the group was looking for Babek, the other was investigating. It turns out that the address we need on the avenue is not 10 minutes from the center, but in the middle of nowhere. That is, it really begins near the center, and ends unknown where. But this is not the worst thing: for a month and a half now they have not provided housing for tourists! But there was either a glitch on the site, or some other misunderstanding...
National character
Our new young acquaintance, whose name is Samir, left us for lunch and returned to work. He promised to arrive in a couple of hours and during this time to find us a suitable inexpensive option for housing for three days.
The cafe was a long narrow street with separate guest rooms hidden on the right and left. Azerbaijanis generally like to be alone.
Cafe near the Botanical Garden
We ordered some local dishes. Over lunch we discussed the Baku driving style, the locals who are so willing to help if they understand Russian, plans for the remaining two days, because half past twelve was already coming to an end, and we still hadn’t unloaded our suitcases.
There are many European-style establishments in Baku, but it is much more interesting to visit those filled with oriental flavor: with carpets, armouds and oriental sweets.
Then we spent two hours in the Botanical Garden, walking along the paths, looking at the exhibition of roses and other plants, taking photographs, reading... In other words, we passed the time as best we could. We even started to worry, maybe we shouldn’t wait for Samir, but go looking for housing ourselves?
Blooming water lilies
Rose exhibition
However, exactly two hours later the phone rang. Samir said that he had found an apartment for us, now they are preparing it, and he is already on his way to pick us up.
This is where the story with Babeko ends, and the story of love, oh, vacation, of course, begins.
We wait a couple of hours and have already climbed every tree in the Botanical Garden.
On the way to the rented apartment we stopped in Icheri Sheher - the old city. But we decided to explore its sights another time. We just went into the store, bought it using a magnet, and went to look at the apartment.
Carpets are the property of the republic, each one is like a work of art.
We wanted to quickly take a shower, change clothes and feel like a human being. It was the second day since we were on the road.
They found an excellent apartment for us. Three rooms almost in the central part of the city on the 19th floor. The view from the window is stunning: the famous Baku flame towers are at arm's length from us. There was one thing: there weren’t enough beds in our new apartment for everyone. Some had to sleep on the floor.
The Flame Towers are on the list of attractions for which thousands of tourists from all over the world travel to Baku.
Our new acquaintance, already almost a friend, left us to settle down and went back to work. Yes, it’s not for nothing that Azerbaijanis are considered one of the most hardworking peoples. This applies only to men; women, as a rule, do not work there at all.
We were left alone: we washed ourselves, shared rooms, went to the store. From local products, we bought a bottle of pomegranate wine, cheese (be sure to try Azerbaijani cheeses!), and fruit.
Oriental sweets for tea
We started preparing dinner. An hour later Samir came to us with rice and chicken for Kurdish pilaf.
Azerbaijan has a rich ethnic composition. Our new friend is a Kurd.
This is interesting: In different regions of Azerbaijan, cheese is prepared according to different recipes. Here you can try the whole variety of Caucasian cheeses. Hard and like you're eating butter. My favorite was Motal - the most delicious and most expensive cheese in the country.
We persuaded Samir to cook pilaf next time. In the meantime, they sat him down at the table, put naval pasta in front of him, and poured him some Russian cognac. Samir squirmed, but drank. We asked him about the sights of Baku, about Azerbaijani traditions, about whether they still have patriarchy. The first evening in Baku was coming to an end. In the morning we had a big tour of the city, and it turns out that our new friend has a birthday tomorrow.
Icheri Sheher and other reasons to come to Baku
The morning was leisurely. From 9 o'clock everyone began to wake up, prepare breakfast, and prepare themselves to go out. Baku is a modern city with developed infrastructure. And since we took a sightseeing car tour yesterday, today we decided to go for a walk. Our house was 10 minutes from the metro.
Our friendly company is going to Icheri Sheher
Please note: d Traffic in the Baku metro is circular. Before the train arrives, a board lights up indicating which direction the train is traveling.
Icheri Sheher metro station. Very soon we will see the old city
We left the subway and almost immediately the wall began. Once upon a time, behind this wall there was the city itself, and even earlier - the entire state.
Historical reference: Icheri Sheher, or “fortress”, or “old city” of Baku. Here is the palace of the Shirvanshahs, here is the Maiden Tower, here Nikulin said “damn it.” A large fortress wall, behind which is located a whole city, or, as it is also called, the inner city.
The first mention of Icheri-Sheher dates back to the 5th century. Today, the Old Town is a unique historical ensemble, where tourists from all over the world come and where real residents live. The locals also call them serfs. Their total number is about 1300. And they have their own measures.
At first it seems that Icheri Sheher is very small, but in reality it turns out that even a whole day is not enough to explore it.
Icheri-Sheher Scheme
5 must-see attractions in Icheri Sheher
1.Maiden's Tower. 28 meters of a huge stone cylinder on a ledge of a coastal cliff. In the old days, the city ended here and the sea began. The purpose of the tower is unknown.
There are many legends about its construction. According to one of them, the Shah decided to marry his own daughter. Then the girl, in the hope of dissuading her father, asked to build his tower and wait for the completion of construction. The Shah complied with the request. Then the girl went upstairs and threw herself from there into the sea.
There are always crowds of tourists near the Maiden Tower, and entrance to it is paid - about 4 manats.
We didn’t go to the Maiden Tower: it’s a waste of money and the queue is too long.
2."Damn it." Many famous Soviet films were filmed in Icheri Sheher, among them “The Diamond Arm”. In the Old Town there is a cafe “Damn it,” and at the place where Yuri Nikulin said the legendary phrase, hundreds of tourists wipe their pants every day.
There is a sign attached to the place where the movie was filmed, so you won’t confuse it with anything else.
Local residents show photographs of film stills and offer to navigate through them.
3. Palace of the Shirvanshahs. The complex, which includes the Divan Khan, the tomb of the Shirvanshahs and the palace mosque, built from the 13th to the 16th centuries. The construction is associated with the transfer of the capital of the Shirvanshahs from Shemakha to Baku. Shirvan is a historical region in Transcaucasia from Derbent to the Kura River delta. Currently, it is part of the territory of Azerbaijan.
You can enter the territory of the palace, but we chose a different course - we went to the market.
Street trading - you don’t even need tables, all the goods are on carpets.
I remember the stories of Sinbad the Sailor, here they are - the colors of the east.
4. Shops and street trading in Icheri-Sheher. We got the impression that all 1,300 inhabitants of the fortress city were exclusively merchants. There are so many of them on the streets! They offer everything from oriental sweets to carpets. We liked one lamp, but it was very expensive, having decided that the Genie, who would grant three wishes, would probably not fly out of it, we put the lamp in place and began to try on national hats.
Papakha. What do you think of the new hairstyle?
5. Baths of Icheri-Sheher. Oriental baths resemble oriental mosques - just as round and beautiful. No match for our black baths. Recessed into the ground, only the entrance halls are visible from the outside.
Can you really say that this is a bathhouse?
We liked Icheri Sheher, every street and every house there is a World Heritage Site: the streets are narrow, the people are friendly, the locals not only want to sell something on, but are also ready to talk for hours about their city for free. So you can save on a guide and without a twinge of conscience ask passers-by and merchants about their national heritage. Be sure to try oriental sweets at the market.
On the red carpet - this is actually the entrance to the carpet museum.
Beautiful panorama, on the left is the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum.
There are 6 embassies in Icheri Sheher.
Having walked several kilometers and worn out our legs, we sat down on a bench and watched. Opposite, men were playing street chess. This is generally accepted among Azerbaijanis; here on every side street you can meet men playing cards or backgammon at a table. And women stay at home.
On the streets of Baku you can meet groups of men playing chess, backgammon or cards.
Representatives of the fair sex walking along the streets were divided into three categories:
- Completely naked are mostly young people. In tops with exposed navels and shorts that cut to the fifth point.
- Moderately naked - these are the majority. Girls in knee-length dresses look like they are going to the theater.
- Completely closed. Yes, you can still meet women in burqas on the streets of Baku.
Baku Sydney
Street sculptures Baku
Having rested a little and waited for our Azerbaijani friend Samir, we hit the road again. This time we walked past the Baku Boulevard, the flame towers, the Philharmonic (did you know that Muslim Magomayev was an Azerbaijani?), past the area where the Rally took place, past Torgovaya Street.
Baku is considered one of the most beautiful cities not only because here the East meets the West, but also because the historical center was built up around the same time. The city is an architectural ensemble; every building is worthy of praise!
We took the funicular up to Nagorno-Karabakh - the best observation deck with a view of the whole of Baku.
We walked along the Alley of Martyrs, or Alley of Glory in Russian. Completely tired. The day rolled smoothly towards evening. Samir offered us a ride, and - attention! - nine people and one driver got into a white Toyota and drove home.
Samir is a traffic cop, so we could afford it. He was the only traffic police officer with whom we managed to “make friends.” It is clear that after meeting with him we had no unpleasant situations on the road to Baku.
We started preparing dinner, some were getting ready, because Samir, with the permission of the adults, invited two young girls to the restaurant for his birthday. When he arrived again, we congratulated him by giving him a Russian souvenir - a bottle of vodka hidden in a matryoshka doll and left for Hollywood - one of the coolest clubs and restaurants in Baku.
In “Hollywood” everything is expensive and rich: golden toilets and sinks, a lot of red, luxuriously dressed and carefully made-up women. We rented a separate room with karaoke, and that’s where our knowledge of “Hollywood” ended.
In the restroom of one of the restaurants in Baku
Remember, I already said that Azerbaijanis like to sit in little rooms? This is the same as sitting in the kitchen in Russia. It’s just that in Baku guests are taken not to a house, but to a restaurant.
Interestingly, their prices for “sit in a restaurant” are not high. For 30 manats, which is about 1,200 rubles in our money, we are ready to close the room. And, what we didn’t know before, but this will come in handy, in Baku there is not much difference in the menu between luxury establishments and shacks. Unless the cost of tea will be different. In elite establishments, just drinking tea costs 30 manats.
Miami Beach on the Caspian Sea
The Caspian Sea is turquoise green
In Azerbaijan there is the Caspian Sea. It differs from Black in its characteristic turquoise-green color. The coolest beach in Baku is Miami Beach. That's where we went on the third day of our journey. By bus, because there are racers all around and because we drove around Baku a year in advance on the first day. In addition, public transport in Baku runs well in all directions.
We liked the beach. They say it is very expensive there during the season. But we were there at the end of May, when it was not the season: entry, sunbeds, and houses were still free.
The coolest beach in Baku Miami Beach
If you imagine a little, you can imagine that we are in Bali.
We spent the whole day on the beach, relaxing, sunbathing and running for beer.
This is the most delicious beer in Baku - be sure to try it.
In the evening, someone was packing their bags - in the morning we were leaving for Georgia, and someone else went on a night walk again. This time at karaoke: sing Emin, dance “jeirani” - a folk dance of Azerbaijan, drink pomegranate wine.
Time stop - I don’t want to leave Baku
Results of the trip
A few words as a summary about your vacation in Azerbaijan:
- People friendly. The majority professes Islam, and according to Islam, helping for free is considered a good deed.
- Money- Azerbaijani manat is equal to approximately 40 rubles. It is very profitable to buy fruits; they are sold there in gapiks, kopecks in our language, and usually cost less than 1 manat.
- Entertainment- carousels, cinemas, and in Russian, theaters, excursions, cafes - there is everything!
- Language- Azerbaijani. The percentage of Russian speakers is 50/50, decreasing with distance from the center. All schools study Russian, English and Azerbaijani languages.
- Movement - very aggressive movement. It is more convenient to get to Baku by car; it would be good to go out of town or visit other large cities, but in Baku itself, if you are not a horseman and are not going for thrills, it is better to travel by public transport or taxi. The price for a taxi is from 2 manats, that is, from 80 rubles. The metro costs 30 gapiks, less than 20 rubles, the same amount for bus fare.
If you have not yet chosen where you will live and want to save money when booking, we recommend using the RoomGuru service. Firstly, it contains hotels, apartments and guest houses from many different booking systems, so you won’t miss out on a worthwhile option. Secondly, you can immediately compare prices for one place in different services and book where it is cheaper (this is not always Booking!).
From the article you will learn about prices in Baku in rubles and dollars for groceries, food in restaurants, taxis, public transport, hotels in Baku and apartment rentals, as well as how much our vacation in Baku cost and how much money to take with us to Azerbaijan for 1 week.
As part of a study tour to Azerbaijan, we spent one week in Baku. We rented an apartment for 7 nights, looked around everything, went to 4 different places outside the city.
Previously, Azerbaijan was considered a very expensive country for travel, but after the manat exchange rate in relation to $ and € dropped significantly, prices in Baku are no longer shocking. Now is the time to go to Azerbaijan.
Azerbaijan currency - Azerbaijani manat AZN
AZN rate
1 AZN = 34 rubles
1 AZN – 15 hryvnia
1$ = 1.7 AZN
1€ = 2.03 AZN
How much did our holiday in Baku cost?
In 7 days and 7 nights in Azerbaijan it was spent 450$ for two excluding airfare, including
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